Leadmill avatar

Leadmill
Progress

Last online 1 year ago

Joined: 25th Oct 2007

Completed costumes: 34

Photos uploaded: 279

Progress journals: 266

Events attended: 24

http://leadmill.deviantart.com/

Plan to use these for Maximus as they moderatly asthetically close to the late Roman style footwear. They will be partly covered by tunic trousers and greaves.

Nice wool material selected for Tunic/Trousers and a grey blend for the Undertunic. It is lush!

Helmet cut to shape from sheets of leather, before using boiling water to carefully mould the leather to shape.

Moulded in similar process to greaves, affixed with straps and leather thongs.

Strapping and lacing at back added.

Greaves shaped to fit. Will be affixed to legs using straps and ties.

WIP on greaves. Cut from cow leather and moulded to shap.e

Eagle designs added and leather strips dyed ready for adding to submalis tunic.

Eagle detailing for submalis pteruges.

Armour detailing approaching completion. However few bits still to be done.

Shoulders and Pteruges attached for a test fitting. Looking good so far!

Leather acquired for leather under-tunic which another set of longer pteruges will be attached to.

Griffon details for front of the armour.

Lion heads painted and attached.

Shoulders painted and weathered to give a blueish worn steel look.

Cut from Vegtan leather to represent metal lorica segmentata shoulders.

Moulded from saddle style leather. Doug had a hell of a job with it!

These will be affixed to leather pteruges.

Taken from a trinket obtained by Doug in Rome.

Design made from putty ready to be cast.

Ordered some calf length riding boots that are of a similar style to what is seen in the game.

Bought wig online, was then trimmed by Alias at the front and sides a little.

Commissioned from God Save The Queen Fashions

Decided to work on an improved version.

Commissioned from God Save The Queen Fashions

Commissioned from God Save The Queen Fashions

Commissioned from God Save The Queen Fashions

Commissioned from God Save The Queen Fashions

Commissioned from God Save The Queen Fashions

Ordered a kit online and have been working on it off and on for a week or two.

Each bone charm is made from hand sculpted polymer clay, acrylic paint and matte varnish. The width of the belt varies. Each charm is fastened in with leather straps and steel rivets.

Mask aquired online, will need modification. Including repaint and red velvet interior.

Bought a jacket and added embroidered Survey patches, carefully removing some edges of the original design with acetone and some patience so that the new patches hide it.
Buttons were changed over as as the epaulette ones looked too large for my liking.

Survey Corps patches arrived. Will be affixed to the jacket.

Base jacket sourced and made to measure. Will need decals removing and patches adding.

Finished shoulder holster, can be adjusted in four places for the final fitting, two buckles on the back and around near the front.

Press studs and stitch detail was added.

Shoulder holster made in 3 separate main parts, the main shoulder straps with the double pouch worn on the right and gun holster worn on the left. All painted with leather tan spray.

Paper templates were made before covering craft foam with faux leather. I ended up making the gun holster, which isn't used, from scratch. Two large pouches were attached together.

Buckle and strap was added to jacket, now complete.

Purchased a Neca Skyhook replica. Will undergo a partial repaint to improve detailing.

Waistcoat belt made from same fabric as the back panel with buckle added, will be fixed into place during the fitting to get the right position.

Using the same fabric as the back panel the modified collar was added, adding the white trim and stitch detail by hand.

Button holes, buttons and faux pockets added to the front panels along with the lining.

Modified Simplicity 2895 pattern, as it has a collar part that I could alter.
Found an herringbone pattern fabric that was a good scale, not too large - this fabric has been used for the front two panels. Black polyester was used for the main back panel and the narrow back belt/buckle will be added later. The small faux pockets still need to be added on the front panel here.

Decided to replace the cheap badges I am already using, with a set of much improved badges with a more accurate look and shape.

After seeing the first lot of pictures from Aya I realised I have the drop leg on the wrong leg and the belt kit with accessories in wrong place. That will be rectified on next wearing.

Alias did a fantastic job fabricating an NHS patch for the hat as they cannot be purchased in shops.

Sourced a screen accurate Basketweave Handcuff Holder.

To keep Duty Belt secured properly to trouser belt I sourced some accurate belt keepers.

Decided to upgrade Ricks belt to a more accurate one using a Basketweave Duty Belt with nickel buckle.

Rig was tested to see how suitable it was. It's not perfect but allows limited mobility and looks ok.

Bone Saw was mounted onto a dropleg panel using elasticated velcro. Loops for the excess straps were also added. Along with the Surgical Scissoers which are mounted alongside the Bone Saw.

Bags were made by EJ Sephyirane. They were packed out to maintain thier shape. They will need a bit of modifying so they sit right.

For the belt kit I sourced some Ace Bandages, modified three Pill Bottles, and some Medical Tape. They were attached to the belt using self adhesive velcro, a loop was wrapped around the belt in several sections. The belt items then had velcro attached. This was so they could be added/repositioned/removed without the belt having to be taken off.

Was unable to find medical tape in an accurate size, so used masking tape instead.

After some searching I was able to buy some white latex gloves. All the ones I use at work are either blue or purple and therefore unsuitable.

Finished Medic Syringe Gun by In Your Dreams FX

Patches for new shirt were salvaged from an old surplus one supplied very kindly by Nekoflamealchemist

Syringe holster made by the very talented Alias.com.

Sourced some small pill bottles and resprayed caps to correct colour. Will add RX labels shortly.

A standard stethascope was sourced from a medical supplies website. Was given a few coats of matte black paint to match reference material.

Progress on Bone Saw made by In Your Dreams FX

Sorted a set of paramedic shoulder slide. Was quite tricky but managed it in the end.

Two different types of medical/surgical scissors were sourced for use on the dropleg panel.

Sourced Paramedic shirt and trousers from a medical supplies website. Hat was found on eBay. Fortunatly they colour match.

After a couple of attempts with different brands found a suitable hoody, and Faramon helped locate a suitable vest.

A pack of plain mask's were used as a base. One mask was used as a template, the pieces cut out, but as predicted using spray paint whilst layering the stencil mask on top of another didn't produce clean lines. So the design was hand painted on and sheer black fabric was fixed inside to cover the eyes.

Hat was darkened by Alias and patches attached. Worn together to see how it all looks.

Shirt arrived so I then affixed collar insgnia, name badge, and county shield. Patches need to be attached then it's done.

Wasn't happy with VPU as it was too large and not accurate so remodelled it. Now much more slimeline and closer to ref material.

After some touching up of details mask is finished.

After an afternoon in the garage. Using a pair of tinsnips, an angle grinder, a dremel and masionary drill I have nearly finished the mask.

Vest completed by Captain Jack

Basketweave security belt was sourced from same site as shirt and trousers.

Reinforced with card and foam and covered with faux leather with stud detail and faux fastenings. To be worn on the waist belt.

Reusing the gold campaign cord from my Supertroopers project, I test fitted that and the badge to the hat to get an idea of how they look together. I'm happy with the result. However the band on the hat will need removing, and the hat itself darkening a shade with fabric spray. It fits perfectly too.

Due to the complexity of scratch building something as intricate as the sherriff badges, I opted to buy some ready made ones that were pretty spot on.


Some artistic license was used since the references were so small. Buckle made from foam and reinforced with wonderflex. Detail was added into the foam before and after painting. It has one belt loop on the back to slip onto the waist belt and it hides the original buckle by fastening over it and to the original belt loop with velcro.

The waist and shoulder belt were masked and the edges sprayed gold, belt loops were made and chrome buckles will link the two belts. A chrome buckle was used at the front on the shoulder strap.

These were marked in place whilst the jacket was being worn and fixed in to place near the elbow area.

Bought the type of jacket Rick uses during Season 1. Tricky to find and wasn't cheap....

When it arrive patches will be sewn on to the arms.

Shirt is a US police Class A shirt in two tone Tan/Brown. I bought an identical shirt from the same website 3 years ago for my Supertroopers project.

Since the original jacket design widens near the bottom, an extension was made using matching suit fabric with the red and gold trim attached. Velcro will help fasten it.

Hat is a Cattleman cowboy type. Once it arrives will see how close colour is and darken it if needed using fabric spray.

Ordered 4 screen accurate patches, 2 for the shirt and 2 for the jacket.

Flamethrower provisionally finished, however there a few things that still need doing. The trigger unit isn't sitting right and the paint job on the tank needs touching up.

Attached the secondary feeder pipe to the main body using chicken wire. Then added grey tape for asthetic purposes. I varying parts of the flamethrower were also fixed into place using contact adhesive, expanding foam, and superglue.

Spacers added and then test fitted. Very happy with how they measured up.

The inner barrel was still grey so sprayed it black to make it blend to the main body. Red electrical tape was added above it to help adhesion of the nozzle when it will be added when paint dries.

Secured trigger unit to the connecting pipe using cable ties carefully cut to length.

Spacers were secured to the feeder pipe using superglue, as well as a metal nail.

Because the feeder pipe doesn't quite reach the main body of the flamethrower, some metals sections were cut and sprayed graphite to match the tube.

Positioned the shoulder pads with strong velcro which will be trimmed afterwards so that it is hidden completely. Attached the gold trimming linking from the brooch to the one shoulder pad.

After modding the trigger unit has been test fitted using a some tubing. I think the top part is a little underscale, so will be looking into that.

Trigger unit is based off a JG MP5 lower. Bits will me removed/added to achieve the correct look. Unit will be sprayed flat black.

The nozzle was given a fine coat of metallic red to simulate heat damage. The feed tube was painted graphite metal. Everything was then test fitted again as I await construction of trigger unit.

The tank was given two coats of yellow paint in slightly different colours. The paint job was deliberatly roughly done to better represent wear and tear. Decal, dials and other details were added.

MP5 with under barrel laser unit

Bottom of bottle was sawn off to better represent the fuel tank. The expanding foam with filling out the base nicely.

NBC suit arrived, tested it with rest of kit. Helmet doesn't quite sit right so may need modifying.

Flamethrower was disassembled for priming, several successive coats were added.

Parts were test fitted together again to make sure they were in right location etc, prior to priming.

Using a weedkiller spray lance/nozzle I constructed the pilot flame element for the flamethrower.

For the project i'm using a British Army Mk6a helmet with a DPM cover. An S10 gas mask with black flash proof lenses, and a DPM tactical vest.

After the disaster with the cardboard tube I searched the garage for an alternative. My dad pointed out some plastic 1.25" piping he used for plumbing work. This fitted quite nicely over the cardboard tubing, it meant I didn't have to take the original pipe to pieces to recover the metal parts used. The added benefit being it now bulks out the secondary pipe to a slightly better scale.

Second set of holes drilled without issue.

Attempts to drill holes in cardboard piping produced unstatisfactory results. Holes lack definition, are uneven, and damage intergrity of its structure.

After foam had set, excess was cut away with a stanley knife and whole thing was sanded.

Added connector made from old plumbing supplies to secondary pipe. Expanding foam was used to secure pip into place as well as seal both ends. Left to set.

Bulked out one of the sections of tank connector with foam strips.

Sleeve was added using strip foam cut to length and glued into place. Any gaps were covered with electrical tape.

Next up was to test fit the nozzle parts together and work out where abouts they should sit. I then cut a collar out of plastic piping and added to the main body off the flamethrower. An additional sleeve of cardboard tubing was then cut for the main body of the nozzle.

Once the expanding foam had set I put together the various elements again in another mockup. From this I was able to work out what size the piping needed cutting to and what do next with the flamethrower nozzle.

Several sections of plastic piping, cardboard tubing, and pipe insulation foam were cut to length. I then mocked up the design using the parts I currently have to get an idea of how big the weapon will be when finished. It is still missing some critical elements such as the trigger unit.

Bottle filled with expanding foam to aid in rigidity, place holder pipe added.

After looking around to find something of appropriate scale I located a bottle of lemonade that had escaped the sonambulist machinations of Ryukredapples. After drinking the contents, I then sourced a T section of pipe from B&Q and test fitted with the bottle.

Vest was commissioned from Captain Jack from Cosblade due to it's complexity. This is progress on the outer MOLLE layer.

Strips of the same red fabric used for the jacket was fixed to the sides of the trousers.

Made from foam and sealed with stretch latex paint before painting, they were also heat formed to keep their shape and to help them stay over the shoulders of the jacket. They will be kept in place with velcro.

Press studs were used to fix the badge into place. Stronger than velcro or glue and removable like the shoulder pads, so that the suit can be cleaned.

The collar was extended and gold ribbon and detail was added.

I commissioned a Magnemite plush from Midnight Cosplay to accompany my gijinka project. She did an awesome job and i'm very happy with it. Will definatly use her services again.

The completed red sections with ribbon.

The wider band was fitted to the hem of the jacket and the thin ones to the sleeves, finished off with the gold ribbon.

Three strips of red cotton were hemmed and topstitched, ready to be fixed to the jacket.

On the backs of the sleeves near the elbow, are two small epaulet like details. There were made from the same red cotton fabric to be used for the jacket with faux buttons added.

A tuxedo jacket with a mandarin collar was used as the base. The black buttons were swapped over for gold coloured ones and the overlapping side of the jacket was switched over to match the ref images. Its planned to be fastened with velcro since the buttons are now faux ones. Gold ribbon was added along the edge and along the buttons.

Pattern pieces were stiched together roughly. Slightly larger than needed so adjustmants could be made. This was useful especially for the leg length.

After checking the weft/weave of the material was correct the material was cut to shape, according to the pattern.

Using same material used for the tunic, the fabric was laid out in preperaton for cutting.

Tried mask, tunic and crossbelt, to get an idea how of it looks together. Very happy with the result.

New tunic was made after testing with a prototype, the fabric chosen is a black/brown fleck weave, a heavyweight linen/polyester blend. It was a better colour, gave a better shape overall and was made up of three different pattern pieces combined, the tunic, the caplet and the heavy hood and it's easily slipped over the head.

These were originally black mechanic gloves, white areas were painted over with latex in the correct shape of the final design. This was to make sure the white fabric paint didn't bleed into the black fabric and helped to hide the edges of the original design and make the paint more even.

Test wore costume minus details. The tunic is a bit tight, so it will be remaid using lessons learnt from the first version. With the invaluable help of Alias!

Pouches were finished, as well as a belt cover made from spare leather and string.

Seam detail added to the shoulders, back and around the arms.

BSAA North America patches ironed into place at the top of the sleeves.

A matching faux zip was added to the top of the shirt.

The large heavy hood and capelet attached to the tunic. The hood was gathered at the front so that it draped neatly.

A double layer was used to add to the rough edge of the capelet as seen in the game references. This was attached to the main tunic around the shoulders after the hood was attached.

Basic tunic made from a lightweight poly crepe fabric. The tunic, hood and capelet were combined from separate patterns.

Paper templates were used to find the correct sizing then the base of the pouches were made from thin craft foam, covered in suede fabris with push pins and press studs used for the faux fastenings.

Blade was cut from the handle. A hole was drilled into the boot sole and a metal dowel inserted. This was then used to affix the blade.

Filter was painted and fixed into place. Care was taken to keep the vents clear of paint, so as to no be breathed in. Paint is a known carcongenic.

Added a jar lid to the front of the VPU, and after adding a few more coats of paint, removed the lenses masks and used meths to clean edges.

Using specialist rubber paint the mask and VPU were given first few coats of paint. Some minor bubbling was encountered but will be sanded off and painted over once first few coats dry.

Masking off the filter port and covering the lenses with film and paint proof lenses (pringles lid), the mask was then cleaned and readied for painting.

Lenses are red reflective acetate, cut to shape and installed.

While waiting for some pringles lids to become available so I could mask lenses when I painted them, I base coated the VPU with black enamel spray paint.

Test fitted VPU to make sure it sat right. The outer foam casing needed a good "Stanley Knifing" before I could get it sitting straight.

After measuring out some foam to bulk VPU out with, I used some packing material to provide a more stable base for the unit on the mask.

Using a tin of rather grim Co-Op sweetcorn (the contents of which went straight into the bin), I cleaned to tin out and cut it to shape using a hacksaw and tin-snips.

A small plastic craft dome was used as a base to shape the milliput on top of it, the detail around the edge and the circle in the centre was added before it could set. The plastic dome was bigger than what was needed and was cut away from the milliput once it had set. Foam was used to form the small raised pyramid on top and fixed into place. Primed and spray painted gold with the matching gold rope attached inside the dome and a flat back added so that it can be fixed to the jacket at a later stage.

Salvaged from a project that never saw daylight, i'm going to be using a larp throwing knife as a donor weapon for my boot blade.

After another coat of paint the blade was mounted onto the rig and screwed on. The paint needs another few coats. Last min touch ups will be done at Aya.

Before being painted the silver colour prior to attachment to the rig, a base coat of black enamel paint was added.

Test mounted the blade onto the wrist rig to see if it was the right size.

Once the desired shape was achieved I then cut the wood to the approximate length it would need to be to fit on the blade mount.

Selecting a piece of pine that was around the correct width. I then carved and sanded it to achieve the bladed shape.

Using 50mm webbing material as a base, a drawer slider was mounted and secured. Straps using 25mm webbing and buckle clips were added to help attach the rig to the users arm. The materials thickness made sewing the straps a challenge. Using a carpet needle and strong thread this problem was overcome.

Using a Molle EMT Pouch and a donor holster, Alias very kindly was able to fabricate the thigh pouch HUNK now wears on his left leg.

Purchased a KWA MP9 A3 Machine Pistol, added foregrip and PEQ to closer replicate HUNK's custom machine gun.

Added some detailing to handle and brackets on box to pick them out better.

Added silver tips to the bullet belt and secured some of the fastenings with glue.

While in storage and through use the bracket that helped keep the phone handset in place was damaged and removed. I have cut another one out of a similar type of wood, sanded it and using wood stain colour matched it.

After several years of use the backpack was looking a little tired. The straps have been completely repainted. The metal frame has been recoloured and the box has been 'weathered' to suit the new incarnation of this costume.

Dremeled two holes into the end cap. Then used a curved piece of metal and inserted it into the holes. Then secured them with glue. Will be resprayed when glue has dried.

Using a 110m end cap I drilled a hole and with some difficulty threaded through and secured a smaller pipe. Still needs sanding and painting properly once glue has dried.

Bought an old ammo box, added some stencilling and a new hinge.

In additon the gun sight I added a range finder taken from an AK47.

Added a resprayed brass handle to enable carrying of the Vickers when not mounted on a tripod. Added a brass letter in keeping with the ID theme I started with my Steampunk backpack.

Added Vickers to newly painted tripod to see how the colours I picked have worked. I like the look a lot. The box could benefit from some weathering so i'll have a go at that at a later time.

Removed a short section off end of the barrel. The Vickers balences better now but I still think it could do with a little off more off the end.

Drilled a hole in the bottom of the Vickers to accommodate the pole and filed out the inside so the gun would sit straight. This took a few attempts to get right. As you can see the gun sits well although a little front heavy. As I think the barrel is a little too long right now anyway I will be removing a bit from the end to compensate for this!

Using an old heavy duty camera tripod. I cut away what I didn't need, added a strengthening jacket to the top section and a gun plate. This will be painted after I have test fitted the Vickers

After assembley and painting added the metal/wood effect firing handles.

Started painting the barrel using "Antique Gold" as I thought Bronze or Copper wouldn't look right.

Using more expanding foam I attached the barrel the main body of the gun.

Added the barrel to the to the guide pipe. It is rather long!

Cut a length of 110mm to the size I needed in preperation for attaching to the main body of the vickers.

Using expanding foam the pipe is held in place. When it has hardend it should be more than able to support the wieght of the main barrel assembley. I used a similar method for my Resident Evil minigun.

Due to the frame being so thick it created some serious problems. It meant I couldn't directly mount the 110mm pipe i'd purchased. So I came up with a solution. Insert a smaller 'guide' pipe to mount the larger one onto.

Using a metal loops and some wood added a feed port on the side of the unit.

Using an old door hinge which I found while helping my dad, I added it to the top of the Vickers to serve as a aiming sight. Range finder to follow soon.

Using bits of wood found around the garage, I cut them to shape to form the casing ejection port on the machine gun.

So to get an idea of the finished product and to highlight further areas in need of sanding/filling I gave the bodywork a coat of black paint.

Added two small pieces of wood cut to size for the detail on the offside.

Using an old bike mount bracket. I cut it to shape and attached it to the side of the box. I then used an old hit of pipe cut to size for the handle. The added a piece of wood bracketed by two pieces of metal for the raised sight mount.

Ordered some metal/wood handles to represent the Vickers trigger handles. Didn't like the brass effect so masked off wood part and sprayed them pewter instead.

The fascisa has been completed and attached to the frame. Now requires work with a rasp and sander to get it nice and smooth

As the wood of the frame is very rough its unsuitable for being used as the outer layer of the machine gun body. So a thin layer of MDF was cut to shape and glued/screwed to the frame.

Cut pieces for base frame from junk wood and glued then screwed them together, to form the framework of the main body.

Two EMT medic pouches were added, along with a tan radio holster. A triple 40mm was then secured to the top of the vest.

CIRAS tactical vest arrived. I then added two twin 5.56mm mag pouches, and an admin pouch to the front.

A set of ear phones was obtained and one of the ear peices was masked off and sprayed blue.

Coloured fabric/foam was added to pocket tops to give the jumpsuit a bit of colour.

Alias added lining to rear of the jumpsuit too. It took her ages and i'm very greatful!

Alias added black fabric lining to the shoulders, sides and pockets of the jumpsuit

Alias found, modded and then added a Magneton to some iron on transfer paper, this was then added to the rear of the jumpsuit.

A set of doorknobs were attached to the shield to represent screws

The prongs of the shield were painted masked off and painted red and blue respectivley.

The prongs were cut out of Pine using a bench saw, they were then sanded down, primed and painted. They were then attached using contact adhesive.

Basic paint colours were added to both the rifle and the shield. The shield handle was also cut to be more clearly defined.

Rifle and shield were given several coats of primer in preperation for more detailed styling.

Took the weapon apart for cleaning and to make the painting process easier.

Bought a Nerf Longstrike from Toys 'R' Us due to the fact its size and bulky appearence tie very well into the mecha asthetic i'm going for with the Magneton Gijinka design.

Patch of the Pumpkin Scissors Unit, to be attached to the left arm

Made by Alias from scrap pieces of plastazote and thin card with a couple of layers of latex. They needed to be quite light and thin to be fixed flat to the collar of the uniforms without weighing the fabric down and distorting the shape.

Painted using mixture of spray paint for the base colour and acrylic for the details. These will be fixed flush to the uniform collars.

Paint effects added and the light has been tested.

The handle was cut into two to make it smaller and was fixed back together. The join will be hidden by the leather strap.

A clip was added at the back made from wonder flex and foam before the top was enclosed. This won't be functional and the lantern will fix onto the belt another way that's more secure.

The top was enclosed and some foam detail added.

The detail over the grill was made from foam and fixed into place and rivet detail added.

The outer foam layer fitted over and around the open grill. The foam was wrapped around the main body and fixed into place around the dynamo handle at the back and some detail was added.

The open grill was fixed into place around the inner plastic piece.

The plastic bottle section was taped into place and the hole for the grill and the power button in the outer foam layer were matched up.

The open grill, closed grill and the lever. A small tab was added on to the closed grill so that its easier to take out once its placed in front of the open grill.

Made from a plastic top with its end cut off, the parts inside are small pieces of wonderflex covered in tape and fixed to the inside rim of the top. The lamp grill won't function so two grills will be made, one open (fixed into place) and one closed that will slot over the top of the other.

The main section of a drink bottle was used to make a stronger base for the outer layer to be fixed to, with sections cut out for the lamp, button and winding handle. The button may be hidden later on and the handle won't be seen at the back.

A cheap dynamo lamp will be used for the light source and the core of the lantern, its original handle will be replaced.

To provide additional reinforcement to the shield struts were added the rear of the shield to provide extra strength.

Using spare MDF the shield design was cut using both a jigsaw and tenon saw. Work was temporarily haulted due to my not paying attention and slicing my thumb quite badly. Once it healed I was able to get the design cut out.

Did a trial test of the ammo belts connected up. They seem fairly strong but will probably reinforce it with tape should it need it.

I repeated the same method used with the minigun connector.

The ammo belt was joined to the minigun using dowls and superglue. Peices of cut pine were then added for asthetics and support.

I cut down a length of bendy platic 15mm pipe and using pipe brackets attached it to the box. This makes the frame more true to the reference material.

I cut the straps to length from Olive Drab 50mm webbing. The ends were then sewn over to prevent fraying. The buckles were spray painted silver and then added to the webbing.

Attached both sides and gave them a coat of paint to see how it will look. It still needs a large amount of finishing before its acceptable.

Started to attach the side panels to the box. First with PVA and then they will be reinforced by small pin nails.

Cut the struts out of pine and glued them to the box. Secured with small nails and added bolts.

After much hassle trying to mark them out, the side panels were cut out of a thin board of MDF, very messy and dusty and needed a lot of sanding.

After trialling a couple of designs that ulitmatly were not sturdy enough I settled for a outdoor type handle that could take a lot of punishment.

Applied undercoat to backpack followed by first coats of metallic silver. Then I test fitted the backpack frame to mark out the attachment points. The sides to the box will be added once the frame is attached.

After strengthening the barrel retaining brackets with expanding foam I cut/sanded off the excess and use plasticard and wood to create the housing over the top. It was then given a layer of black enamel paint, still requires a little finishing however.

Comparing it to the reference material the front frame seemed a little thin, so I added some additional wood, this also served to further strengthen the structure.

Secured side skirt with nails and started detailing by Adding push pins and washers to the box, to simulate bolts and rivits.

After some pondering as to how to attach the barrel to the body of the minigun the barrel was attached. I used guttering brackets and expanding foam to anchor it in place. Will start the remaining barrel housing tomorrow.

Started putting the panels together to form the shape of the backpack. Can't add the side panels yet as I will need access to the centre of the box when I attach it to the frame with screws.

Frame was assembled and painted and modded some webbing staps to act as back supports, clips and buckles were added so they could be adjusted.

After filling in some of the gaps and cracks left by the foam and sanding off the impurities, the side tubes were ready for their final coat of paint.

The front frame will be a major loadbearing section of the minigun so its important I make it as strong as possible. After measuring and cutting the sections to the right size, I glued them into the correct shape. I then two inserted metal rods into each section to provide additional strengthaning. I then filed and sanded down the frame to remove any blemishes.

After cutting the sections I needed out of thin ply, I have started putting the panels together to form the basic shape of the box.

After filling in the gaps around the minigun base I added plasticard to both sides to provide a flush look. I then applied a basecoat of black enamel spray to prevent a paint reaction followed by the metallic gun metal silver. Also spent a good portion of the day cutting out panels and bracing struts for the backpack. As well as started to make the frame out of metal tubing.

The ammo belt was made with assistance of the wondeful Alias.com. Its made of 1m of replica bullets on a 50mm webbing backing, with two strips of 25mm webbing securing the front.

The main body of the minigun was cut down to better fit the design as it was too wide. I then filled the gaps and cracks with "foam wood", and when it was dry went over it all with a belt sander. I then applied a coat of metallic gloss to the barrels, unfortunatly this reacted with the primer and bubbled leaving an awful finish. So I stripped all the paint off and started again this time with enamel. This left a much better finish.

After adding the joystick and bracing to the main body of the weapon, I mocked up the weapon with the bits of it i'm currently constructing. This was to get an idea of scale and spot anything that needed rectifying early. The body is too wide and will need cutting down to the correct width.

After several different attempts and methods I finally complete a provisional barrel assembly. It mades for wooden disks cut from MDF and copper tubing as I wanted it to be rigid and be able to take a lot of the knocks and scrapes that naturally occour with cosplay props. Initial body assembly has been started too.

Holster arrived, its based on the Safariland 6004, given it a matt finish coat of paint and removed one of the leg straps to better replicate the one used in the game.

Headset was a Bluetooth unit that had the wires stripped and filed off. It was then given a coat of paint with details added.

Soft brown pleather was used, the main part is backed on to card to strengthen it. Seam detail and a press stud was added and two loops were added to the back to help fix it onto the black strap that will be worn over the one shoulder. The training knife was covered in latex and spray painted.

Lettering added to the back of the vest: 'S.T.A.R.S. Special Tactics and Rescue Service'

Two short strips of olive green webbing that matches the colour of the vest were added above either of the front pockets.

After the foam padding was added to the back and front panels, excess fabric was taken from an unseen section inside to make the grab handle. The handle was padded out with a little wadding and fixed into place on the back.

The collar section was opened up and the seam where it is attached to the rest of the vest was sewn up first so that the padding didn't move about inside. Quilt wadding was used to pad it out and the ends were sewn closed again.

The vest comes with olive green webbing. Instead of removing the side webbing completely, black strips were sewn ontop and silver eyelets (to match the combat belt) were added. A space was left between the black and green webbing so that the combat belt (for the sheath) fits under and through it. Black cord replaced the olive green that came with the vest and the sides were laced up so that the belt for the sheath could slip through easily.


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