26th September 2014: Waistband Added an interfaced strip for the waistband and put my overlocker to good use to finish off the inside. Just need to stitch a popper into the overlap, but skirt is done!
25th September 2014: Waist Fitting Took a week off to learn how to use my overlocker. I bought it many years ago for Kendappa and rarely use it, but saw an online course and decided I should really learn to make the most of it. Now wishing I'd used it on so many past costumes!
Started off by overlocking the fraying seams on this skirt (post hemming, but better than nothing).
Haine's pleated skirt was hidden under a long shirt, so I got away with making a wide yoke waistband with straight pleats attached. This time more of the skirt is on show, so I have to take it in at the waist properly.
On the inside of each pleat I added a fold to take in some fabric where it wouldn't show or distort the straight lines, I had to do this to most of them to reduce the waist enough, just leaving the very front and back pleats untouched.
Stitched the whole lot down in place, complete with a despair moment of the bobbin silently running out half way through meaning I had to re-pin D:
19th September 2014: Hidden Zips I've never put a zip into a pleat, so I spent a while thinking of the best way to keep it hidden, knowing it would be similar to the way I'd done the seams.
Still had to unpick and try it again after forgetting one side couldn't be topstitched (it needs to lay over the zip to hide it) >.<
17th September 2014: Pleating Victory It took ages, but they're all done!
I just needed to add one extra panel of 3 pleats, joined with a standard seam forming the innermost angle of the pleat. Totally invisible :D
16th September 2014: Pleating Started on the pleated skirt and remembered why I haven't made one since Haine...I am so very slow at pleating :'(
Most of the refs show about 8-10 pleats, so I've gone with 20 pleats for the full skirt. As I'm not an anime waif, going for the upper estimate on pleats will look more in proportion. I divided my hip measurement by the number of pleats to get the size for each pleat.
You need a long rectangle of fabric 2.5 times longer than the goal measurement, but my fabric isn't long enough to do it all in one go so I'll be joining extra pleated panels on later (the seams will be hidden on inner pleat lines and I'm not accurate enough to measure the placement in advance).
The first step is to hem the whole length, then you can start the pleating. I rolled the hem over twice, but where I used a heavy weight fabric I would have been better off overlooking the edge and just rolling once. Trying to press these thick hems with my iron was like wrangling a dragon.
Be careful to always iron on the inside of the fabric, or use a towel/paper to stop it getting burned. So much steam, my hair went curly! I'm pinning each pleat as I move onto the next one so they won't fall out under the nearby steam.
13th September 2014: Jackpot! I delved into the fabric hoard in the hope of finding some cream suiting left over from Maria. Even better than hoped, I came out with everything needed for this costume!
Cream mid weight suiting, brown heavy weight (but soft) twill, brown zip, white ribbon, even the wig I bought for Vice v2 matches Hitomi.
Especially pleasing that I've been carting this brown suiting around since I was in college and nearly chucked it every clear out. Finally its time has come as it is perfect for this costume.
Good to be reducing the hoard rather than adding to it for once.
gomimushi - 17th September 2014
I'm REALLY looking forward to seeing this! *A*
Sephirayne - 7th October 2014
OMG! Yes! Really looking forward to seeing this.
WhiteWraith - 7th October 2014
Ah I love Hitomi! Really looking forward to seeing this :D
Anonymous - 8th November 2014
Fantastic work on the skirt, very professional looking pleats. :) You're tempting me to make Dilandau, Merle or Van soon as they're all on my Cosplay Wishlist.
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