17th March 2019: Skirt And the final thing. The fabric is a lovely herringbone suiting from fabworks.co.uk which BillieBlouse found. It’s just what we needed – it’s still navy, but very dark and approaching black.
I sewed the hem and overlocked all edges before pleating, particularly since this fabric frays intensely. The waistband extends up quite high since I wanted to ensure that the short jacket would generally overlap it even as I moved around.
The silver trim is imitation leather from Neotrims which was hard work, but worth the effort. I had to glue it in position first (I tried a few glues and eventually chose EvoStik Serious Glue which seemed to work well and also not gum up my needle too much) and would leave it to cure with wonder clips holding it in place or under a heap of heavy books where possible. I took my time and did it all in stages i.e. glued down one half of the trim, left it to cure under a heap of heavy books; then folded over the trim and glued down the other half, then move on to the next section.
For sewing I knew I had to be very precise since you only get one shot at sewing this trim, so there were a lot of tests done before I went on to the final thing! I liked using my zipper foot best but had to do some sections with a guide foot, this wasn’t ideal since I don’t have a teflon one but I used sellotape to get it to glide ok. I spent a lot of time testing out the tension etc., used a leather needle, a longer stitch length and even adjusted my needle position, particularly to ensure I was catching the binding that would be wrapped around edges.