Calisto Yew - Ace Attorney Investigations: Miles Edgeworth



Photos

 


Information

I have quite the list of potential Ace Attorney costumes, and of course, I got the expected amount of cosplay inspiration from Ace Attorney Investigation. Calisto Yew seemed do-able in the time before Minami, it’s a design I really like (earrings!), I already had the shoes, could use my own hair, I thought her mannerisms would be fun to imitate, and I liked the idea of having her make-up as props.

I found turquoise cotton drill on eBay, and chose purple lining fabric. I mostly used Simplicity 2508 for the jacket, it gave me a double-breasted, princess-seamed jacket, but it had raglan sleeves, so I had to change it to set-in sleeves. I drafted the collar myself.

I tried applying the bias binding in a new way, which I was inspired to do from studying I jacket I own. It involved using twice as much trim, sewing it to the outer jacket, and the lining before they were sewn together, then treating them as one piece with the bias tape attached. It was a useful technique for the trim start/stopping around the collar, and an easy way to avoid visible stitching inside and out, but it certainly wasn’t necessary for me to do it that way. I think it’s a method best suited for wider trims.

The jacket has functional pockets and buttons. The buttons had to be covered in brown fabric as I couldn’t find any suitable ones. The trousers were made from New Look 6435.

My attorney’s badge is sculpted from fimo and pins on. The earrings are taken from a set of scales, grabbed for 99p on eBay. I also bought a pink compact on eBay, and also had lipstick, eyeliner and pink puffs to pose with! I’m not one for make-up, but thought it would be best to clearly be wearing some for this costume. I aimed for pale pink shades since that seems to be what she wears.

The shirt is from eBay too, and I bought a the tie when I was ordering from rainbowsilks.co.uk. The boots are from my Alice Elliot costume, and I styled my own hair, making use of a hidden hair tie and hairspray to try to keep it fixed in place like hers.

I'm happy with the costume, but I'd like to alter the shirt or get one which fits better since the loose collar looks awful! I also need to experiment with the hairstyle more.

Comments

CharlyVK posted on 21 April, 2010 - 20:11
This looks fab! I love Calisto, she's my fave character from AAI. I really wanted to cosplay Calisto for Nemacon, but I just couldn't find anything similar to the jacket and I can't sew my own clothes for toffee! I am planning to go as Shih-na however :D You did a great job on this!

Sephirayne posted on 21 April, 2010 - 20:31
Awesome job hun. You really looked great

yami-no-neko posted on 22 April, 2010 - 15:50
looks really cool.Those earings are awesome

Freyarule posted on 24 April, 2010 - 20:10
Calistooooo!!! I loved seeing you in this cosplay!!! 8D

MoonLily posted on 24 April, 2010 - 20:17
Ooooh yes! This is wonderful! 8D

theKillingDoll posted on 1 May, 2010 - 09:14
Looking great, particularly the ear rings!

AmethystEyes posted on 1 May, 2010 - 15:46
Awesome cosplay! I've never seen anyone cosplay her before.

gaming_goddess posted on 17 May, 2011 - 20:15
Amazing - i can just hear the irritating laugh emminate from these photos :D Brilliant job!

Progress Journal

22nd April 2010

Notes

I kept this costume secret, but still kept track of my progress when I was making it. I actually kept track of it in a lot more detail than usual, since I’ve never really tried to pay attention to how much time costumes take me, and wanted to do it out of interest for once. So since I’d already written them, I’ve put up my notes along with the few progress photos I took.

22nd April 2010

Tuesday 13th April

I had a trial run of hair and make-up. I’m not usually one for much make-up, but thought it would be best to clearly be wearing some for this costume. I aimed for pale pink shades since that seems to be what she wears.

I’m using my own hair. Hair from the front is pulled back behind my ears, and to make sure it stays like that, it’s tied at the nape of my neck, with the hair tie hidden under the rest of my hair. The front pieces are hair sprayed to try to keep them fixed in place as far as possible, but it doesn’t work well, so I’ll need to improve on it if I can. It’s also not easy to stop my hair from squishing the stand-up collar, or the collar making the hair do strange things. These things do not work in real life!

22nd April 2010

Monday 12th April

The shirt I won off Ebay arrived today - have taken almost 3 weeks to turn up - it seems it wasn‘t the seller‘s fault, and in any case, they handled the situation well, so all is well. However, just my luck after all that - the charity shop shirt seems to be a better choice! I had to sew on an extra button for the collar, and lengthen the sleeves by chopping them in half, and inserting random fabric to increase the length, but that’s it done. I could do with taking in the collar, or getting a better fitting shirt though, since the loose neckline looks a bit off. Anyway, costume complete!

22nd April 2010

Sunday 11th April

Finished sorting out the sleeves, bias tape and shoulder pad, so I could finally close up the lining. I braved making the buttonholes. I really hate them. My machine repeatedly produces beautiful buttonholes when I do trial runs, then just fails on the real deal, and there’s only so much unpicking of tiny stitches that’s possible. Luckily they end up pretty much hidden by the buttons, so as long as I have holes in the jacket which aren’t going to fray everywhere, it doesn’t matter much if they’re neat. I then sewed on all the buttons. Jacket is DONE and my badge also pinned on to the collar.

22nd April 2010

Saturday 10th April

I got more coats of paint on the badge, and glued a brooch fastening to the back, since that was what I had to hand.

I bought a pillowcase in a charity shop for 50p which is a suitable brown colour for covering the buttons. I don’t really know what colour the buttons are meant to be - they seem to be brownish, so I’m going with that. I’ve covered all my buttons now.

I opened up a seam for turning the lining, I‘d originally had different plans for the bias binding which would have meant leaving a seam open wasn‘t necessary. With that seam for turning it, I could finish sewing the bias tape along the hem. I will eventually close up the seam with slip stitching, but I still have to perfect the bias binding, and fix one of the shoulder pads in place, plus fiddle with the sleeve length before I can close up the lining completely.

22nd April 2010

Friday 9th April

Finished the badge, baked it and started painting. My dad tied a nice knot in the tie for me, which is much smarter than anything I could manage!

22nd April 2010

Thursday 8th April

Since the shirt I won on eBay is refusing to turn up, I went round the charity shops after work and picked up another shirt which should be suitable if the other one doesn’t arrive in time. The sleeves are a bit short, so I’m hoping the Ebay shirt is better to save me some effort altering things.

Also started sculpting my attorney’s badge

22nd April 2010

Wednesday 7th April

Worked on the bias tape a bit more

22nd April 2010

Monday 5th April

Back to the jacket. Managed to sort out the collar.

22nd April 2010

Sunday 4th April

I sewed up the trousers, and they’re now complete. I did the hems by hand. That plus sewing on the hook/eye closures took its toll on my fingers.

Also picked up more thread and bias tape when I was at Dunelm Mill.

22nd April 2010

Saturday 3rd April

Put the lining in. I was fed up of working on the jacket though, so didn’t finish it up. Instead, I cut out the trousers to give myself a break. I’m using New Look 6435. No need for pockets when the jacket is armed with them! I ensured I had enough turquoise thread so I could overlock the seams.

22nd April 2010

Friday 2nd April

Finished the pockets completely, sewed in the shoulder pads, and applied all the bias tape to the jacket. Everything was set up ready to put in the lining the next day.

I knew I wanted to sew down some of the bias binding before the jacket is lined - on the sleeves, and collar where it stops and starts. Copying the construction of a jacket I own, I’ve decided to continue this idea and sew down all the bias tape before putting the lining in. It means there’s a seam on every edge, but it’s a simple way to avoid any visible stitching on the bias binding, inside and out, and it’ll make the bits on the collar much easier. I suppose this technique would be best when not using bias tape, like when you want broader trim on the edges, but since I’d already bought bias binding, that’s what I used, even if it meant I needed twice as much this way!

22nd April 2010

Thursday 1st April

Bought a zip for the trousers, shoulder pads, and since I can‘t find suitable buttons, I‘ve bought cover ones so I can worry about finding fabric for them instead.

22nd April 2010

Wednesday 31st March

Finished the pocket flaps. Also, my new scales arrived, and this time, they were a suitable size for earrings. All it took was to detach the pans, and the jump rings on the end of the chains are just looped over a pair of stud earrings. I don’t think I’ll have to do anything more complex to them.

Here’s a pocket in progress and one of the flaps.

22nd April 2010

Tuesday 30th March

I finished up my bias tape on the pocket flaps, figured out the pocket positioning, and started sewing them.

22nd April 2010

Monday 29th March

I started on the real pockets, cutting out all the pieces I’d need. The bias tape needed applied to the pocket flaps before they were sewn in, so I worked on that, and nicely mitered the corners.

22nd April 2010

Sunday 28th March

And the exterior.

I hadn’t made a welt pocket in a while, and I’d never tried one with a flap before, or using two different coloured fabrics, so I had a trial run, which also let me figure out the size I wanted them to be, and ensure I’d have the right measurements for the real pockets. This is my favourite guide for double welt pockets: http://www.cedesign.com/familyphotos/sewing/info/doublewelt/index.html

22nd April 2010

Sunday 28th March

After sorting out the new pieces, and also remembering to add a pleat in the lining this time, I was finally happy enough with the fit.

Next task was to adjust the length. I trimmed it shorter, and with the length confirmed, I could complete the lining with a facing for the bottom edge. I also sewed the stand-up collar part on.

That gave me the finished outer jacket and lining. Actually sewing them together will have to wait until I’ve made the pockets, and added some of the bias tape.

Here’s what the lining looks like

22nd April 2010

Saturday 27th March

Fiddled with the armscyes a bit more, and decided I wanted to cut new centre back pieces to add more room in the shoulders. Won a larger set of scales on eBay.

22nd April 2010

Friday 26th March

Messed about with sleeves - although I made a mock-up, it was really to bash out the main shapes and play with the seam placement. I’m still happier adjusting fit as I go along

22nd April 2010

Thursday 25th March

Did some more assembly, getting the lining together.

My tie also arrived, and the miniature scales turned up too, and although they’re perfect to convert to earrings, they’re too small, so I’m looking at slightly larger ones on eBay. There’s heaps of them for 99p, so it’s not big deal having to try a couple to get the right size.

22nd April 2010

Wednesday 24th March

Obtained extra bias tape, since I now have a better idea of the scale of things.

22nd April 2010

Tuesday 23rd March

Pink compact arrived in record time! Will do the trick. Also won a red shirt off eBay.

22nd April 2010

Sunday 21st March

Pre-washed my fabric (I amazed myself by bothering to do that), and finished up my mock-up while it was drying. Got the pieces cut out, interfaced where necessary, and the outer shell put together. Also bought a pink compact on eBay, after failing to find one in the shops.

22nd April 2010

Saturday 20th March

Started the mock-up, which consists of my parents’ horrible old velvet curtains. I don’t like making mock-ups, as often as I seem to end up doing them. I much prefer to just make a garment once, and hack straight into the final fabric, adjusting things as I go. In this case, I have to figure out the collar, as well as the usual altering of the fit. I also can’t entirely follow the pattern, because it has raglan sleeves, so I’m changing those to set-in ones. Finally, since it’s lined, then I really need to keep track of any alterations I make, so it’s better to do a trial run, then have a more precise pattern for the real thing to ensure my pieces match.

I also bought a tie. I was hunting for silk fabrics and dyes for another costume, and ran across silk ties for sale from a site I was ordering from (rainbowsilks.co.uk). They’re intended as bases for painting/dyeing, but since all I need is a plain white tie, it’s perfect.

Pictured is the messy ugly mock-up, which nevertheless does the job.

22nd April 2010

Thursday 18th March

I bought my lining, thread and interfacing from Edinburgh Fabrics. I also won a set of miniature scales on Ebay, I wonder what those could be for…

22nd April 2010

Tuesday 16th March

I found I had a suitable lipstick with a gold tube. It’s not pale pink like hers, but I just need a prop one, the colour I wear won’t necessarily be the same. Pattern arrived, had a good look at it, and cut out the necessary pieces.

22nd April 2010

Sunday 14th March

Bought turquoise drill on Ebay, and pattern Simplicity 2508 from habithat.co.uk. Also grabbed some pink powder puffs, because I spotted them in Sainsbury’s.

22nd April 2010

Saturday 13th March

I bought purple and turquoise thread and some purple bias tape from Dunelm Mill.

22nd April 2010

Thursday 11th March

Completed the game, and by then was fairly certain I wanted to start a 3rd new costume for Minami!