C.C. - Code Geass

In Progress



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So I started the dress...and somehow along the way lost interest, and have yet to get back to it. I decided I'd upload the progress I managed, and one day I'll finish it.

When on holiday in LA for AX, we visited the incredible fashion district, and I came away with 10 yards of navy blue taffeta, which just squeezed into my baggage allowance for the flight home. I bought all the fabric since it was black on the reverse, making it pretty versatile, and it was also ridiculously cheap to me, even beyond the exchange rate. After thinking on it, and starting to watch Code Geass, I decided that this dress would be a great use for the fabric. I also got an overlocker as a graduation present, which opened up the possibility of rolled hem finishes and let me deal with all that nasty fraying taffeta much more easily.

I initially wasn’t sure what to do about the navy side of the fabric - it would show as the sleeves wouldn’t be lined. After experimenting to see how it would look, I decided that I like having navy aspects to break up the monotony of solid black (although a green/black fabric would have been even better) I’m using navy for the trim on the bodice and sleeves to help the detail show up . The black side of the fabric isn’t entirely black either - it has a navy shimmer when but in one direction, and is a plain black when cut the other way, so I’m varying how I cut some of the pieces too for greater interest too. If I end up short of the taffeta, I may buy some plain black fabric to supplement it - for parts like the skirt, having the navy aspects isn’t important.

Comments

KhaosKreator posted on 14 February, 2010 - 18:15
I love the box pleats on the sleeves! -Tab

kirokitsune posted on 11 September, 2010 - 20:59
This is going to be amazing! I can't wait to see it! Such an amazing piece of artwork too.

Sephirayne posted on 3 January, 2011 - 09:13
Gorgeous dress. I can't wait to see this finished.

Progress Journal

14th February 2010

Bodice

When bunched up by being sewn to a sleeve stay underneath, the pleats open out to give it more volume. The sleeve stay forms the rest of the sleeve that’s visible too. The sleeves are set into the armholes of the loose bodice top I made, and there’s navy trim at each end of the puffs.

Here’s a photo of the sleeves and loose shirt as it’ll look when sewn to the cincher, it probably all makes slightly more sense like that. This is as far as I’ve got with the costume.

14th February 2010

Sleeves

I then basted around the shape of a normal sleeve pattern, and cut out the shape. That gave me a sleeve shape made up of pleats.

14th February 2010

Sleeves

Next up was the puffy sleeves. I experimented with making a slashed sleeve like for my Velvet costume, but wasn’t very happy with the effect, so I made them box pleated instead. This involved pleating a rectangle of fabric, basting the pleats in and pressing them.

14th February 2010

Bodice

I then started making the loose top section of the bodice by extending an ordinary top pattern. The neckline will be finished with ruffles. I wanted to make flounces, but found it would need too many seams to join up the flounce pieces, since I had a make such a tight circle for the amount of ruffle I wanted. I think I’ll use elastic encased in the seam where the ruffles attach to hold the loose top against me, and also try to keep that wide neckline on my shoulders. Photo shows how far I got with this loose top and sleeves, although it just looks incomprehensible in a heap on the table like that!

14th February 2010

Bodice

With the last bit of trim and ribbon

14th February 2010

Bodice

The outside. At this point, it was just missing the trim on the top edge. I think the lower photo picks up the various colours quite well.

14th February 2010

Bodice

Here's the lining of the nearly-completed waist cincher. I folded over and stitched down the seam allowances to make boning channels.

The photo shows up the differences in tint to the fabric, which depend on the direction I cut the pieces. Obviously for the lining, it didn't matter, but I clearly wasn't paying attention when I cut the middle piece!

14th February 2010

Bodice

Then the navy trim goes on too, so once all the pieces are sewn together, both the ribbon and the trim ended up nicely inserted into the seam.

14th February 2010

Bodice

The centre front has the ribbon lacing sewn down on it, but because I'm a bad person, I hot glued it down first.

14th February 2010

Bodice

The pieces cut from the taffeta. I decided to try a technique, which is more useful for proper corsets, but doesn’t hurt for precision otherwise. I traced my pieces on to interfacing first, cut the pieces out a bit beyond those lines, ironed the interfacing to the taffeta, then cut them out following the lines on the interfacing. It was also handy for preventing too much fraying.

14th February 2010

Bodice

Here's the new pattern pieces I ended up with - I had to carefully remind myself to remember to add a seam allowance when cutting the final pieces!

14th February 2010

Bodice

I made the waist cincher bit first, simply by shortening a bodice pattern I already had and moving some of the seams to give me a front panel for the laces. It’s lined, interfaced, and boned with spiral steel. I decided it would look best to have the lacing at the front only be decorative; it has a zip down the back instead. The navy trim is inserted into two seams at the front, as is the ribbon lacing.

The photo is my starting point - a mock-up of the basic bodice pattern, with new seams marked