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Morrigan (Commission) - DarkStalkers

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14th July 2016

Finished

The final fitting! Looking forward to some awesome Morrigan cosplay :D

12th July 2016

Gloves and Straps

Pink power net for the gloves was attached to silicone tape to keep it in place on the arms. Double layered feather trim for the straps with the feathers trimmed away at either end for the straps. These popper onto the corset front and back, then the middle poppers onto the band of the long gloves to keep the off the shoulder look.

11th July 2016

Buskless Lacing

This took quite a while to lace, there are 4m of lacing on this bodysuit. Not having a busk opening on your corset means you need to have enough lacing to expand the whole bodysuit (including the reduced waist) over the hips. This takes a very long time to get into and out of and when it's done up you'll have metres of lacing to loop up out of the way, so be prepared! With this costume we were able to hook the extra lacing around the wing harness and hide it with the long wig. At this point I added poppers to the inside front and back of the corset for the feather straps to attach to, it made sense to allow them to be packed separately or replaced later.

9th July 2016

Finished Bodysuit

Added a pleather trim round the top and bottom edges to finish the look.

8th July 2016

Modesty Panel

Covered eyelets were requested, so I sewed the pleather layer to the corset with an overlap for the eyelets and edged it in bias tape. Alternatively I could have included this pleather back panel under the eyelet tape attached to the corset layer before sewing the outer layer together. The modesty panel has been sewed in on one side with enough of a gap to get to the lacing.

20th June 2016

Lining back

Very fiddly, but I managed to stitch down the lining up against the lacing and overlock all the edges.

19th June 2016

Lining

The lining is exactly the same pattern as the pleather layer, cut from soft cotton. I've also made a modesty panel to sit behind the lacing from pleather and cotton edged with bias binding to keep down the number of layers. Here I'm pinning the lining to the corset layer ready to be sewn together around the top edge.

9th June 2016

Hearts

I made a heart template on paper and used that to carefully cut out the heart shape from the pleather layer. At the same time I stitched flesh coloured power net over the corset layer central panel, this will show through the hole and hide the corset layer from view. I purposely angled the boning in the front of the corset to sit just to either side of this heart so there wouldn't be any raised lines in it.

8th June 2016

Bodysuit

I'd been keeping track of all the pattern changes on the paper pattern, so we did another fitting using the cotton mock up over the corset layer to get any changes now needed on the lower half of the bodysuit. Most importantly, this was the moment where we had to decide on the final shape of the leg line on the bodysuit. Using this I could start the pleather outer layer to cover the corset.

29th May 2016

Corset Layer Finished

Another few fittings and the corset layer is ready! It's always trial and error with corset fittings as different bodies will squish or displace differently as you change the shape. I've now added the boning tape over the seams too and stitched everything closed around the bottom edge.

15th May 2016

Corset Layer

I added heavy duty eyelet tape and boning tape from www.venacavadesign.co.uk where I get all my corset supplies. For now I'm only adding the tape on the panels, allowing some boning while leaving the seams clear for adjustments at fittings.

9th May 2016

Coutil

With the new pattern I added a waist reduction of 1 inch and cut out the corset layer from coutil.

18th March 2016

Fitting

Plastic boning keeps the mockup smooth during fitting. We made all the adjustments on this version to get an initial fit, marking the new seams. Then I unpicked the mockup and copied the changes onto the paper pattern.

17th March 2016

Mockup

After taking measurements I started with a mockup based on the default pattern in the closest size. Doing this in spare cotton saves us wasting corset materials later and going over budget.

9th March 2016

Pattern

The pattern is a bunny suit by Rufflebutt, which required a bit of puzzling to get printed out at the right scale. Unlike commercial printable patterns it's missing a reference scale marker, but we got there in the end!

8th March 2016

Commission

My friend is after a Morrigan costume and I have been wanting to try a more complicated corset style, so I took up the challenge. I will be making the corseted bodysuit and the gloves; the rest of the costume is not part of this project.



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