15th June 2017: Sleeves Sewed some wide elastic into the sleeves to make sure they stay gathered evenly under the bracelets.
14th June 2017: Finished Brooch Glued the jewel into the brooch and added a pin clip on the back.
14th June 2017: Jewels Painted the base of a clear cabochon with red nail varnish, then when it had dried stuck it to tinfoil with a thin layer of more varnish.
I learnt if you try to stick the foil on with the first thick layer of varnish it all smooshes aside and shows the foil.
13th June 2017: Rub n Buff 2 To fix up the paint mistake I sanded it down, used a gold acrylic paint for a base-coat and then the rub n buff on top.
The acrylic paint means it's not as perfectly smooth as before, which makes me think in future I'd just use metallic spray paint instead, sorry rub n' buff I'm not convinced you have a purpose.
Inked in the details to make them stand out more clearly with a dark brown.
28th May 2017: Rub n Buff I decided to try out rub n buff for the metallic effect, thinking spray paint would be too thick.
The effect is very convincing, but I never realised from tutorials that because it's just metallic particles in wax it can be transparent! No matter how much I put on there were some places that always showed the white gesso through, making it look like a patina. Always use this over a matching colour base-coat.
9th May 2017: Gesso Brooch Primed the surface with gesso (except where the gem will be glued) and then spent a very long time sanding and layering while keeping the detail.
21st March 2017: Worbla Brooch Coated the whole thing in worbla to make it sturdier, using a ball point to get it right into the corners and sunken details.
14th March 2017: Brooch Details Once the layers were glued together I used a ball point to etch the sunken details into the foam.
20th February 2017: Brooch Plans I printed out a handy reference of the brooch to use as a template. With three layers of craft foam I was able to build up the basic shape.
19th October 2016: Sash Assemble Placed all the sash parts together and sewed them in place to look like a knot.
6th October 2016: More pearls The sashes are covered in pearls and I was super happy to find you can buy half sphere pearl effect beads! This means I can glue them all down using a ruler to keep the spacing straight and consistent.
25th September 2016: Danglies 2 Added all the beads to the sashes with jump rings using an awl to avoid snagging the bias.
10th September 2016: Danglies The sashes have pearl drops dangling off the end, so I ordered plastic pearl effect beads and drops to keep them as light as possible. They were assembled using flat head jewellery pins and pliers.
3rd September 2016: Two Sashes And then there were two!
One is longer than the other as it includes enough to do a loop. The rest of the knot will be fake, not tied, so the other sash is just long enough to hang down.
20th August 2016: Sash Version 2 Next step is to make the second sash. Having worn the costume once I knew the proportions on the first one were too narrow, so I decided to ditch it and make two new wider sashes instead.
I also found the thin fabrics wrinkled at the seams, so this time I'm sewing the layers onto the canvas inner layer, not just to each other.
9th August 2016: Amecon Trial Run Lovely Tales of Destiny group at Amecon with Ninodog and Delusional!
I've now got a list of things to tweak on the costume too.
24th July 2016: Stage 1 Complete With Amecon coming up and other Tales Cosplayers attending I'm going to take the opportunity to have a trial run with what I've got so far.
24th July 2016: Sash Binding All the colour change seams are hidden under bias binding and then sewn to the white backing with a layer of canvas sandwiched inside to keep the shape.
24th July 2016: Sash Layout The sash is made of 3 sections sewn together; black suiting, white dress fabric, red dress fabric.
I used the same methods for the gold vinyl detail as the dress trims, the swirls were really fiddly to cut out!
24th July 2016: Sash Details Made a freehand pattern for the sash details and then mirrored it to make sure it's symmetrical.
23rd July 2016: Belt The belt is a red crepe tube with a layer of canvas inside and three strips of vertical boning in the front to help keep the shape once the weight of the sashes is added.
The whole thing is trimmed with gold bias binding.
18th July 2016: Adding the Trim The front skirt panel is hemmed shorter than the rest to give the appearance of being on a different layer, then the green strip is hand sewn along the top so it hangs in place.
The red panels were carefully trimmed back along the gold diagonal edge, then all the layers, including gold satin lining, are sewn into the side seams which were left open earlier.
The red panels are then hemmed to the gold lining along the vinyl design.
17th July 2016: Facings The green sections are being placed on top of the dress, so they needed facings to make the edges neat.
16th July 2016: Ironing I added interfacing to the base fabric first to stabilise it, then spent a long time firmly pressing the vinyl on under a tea towel for protection from the iron. I'm really happy with how it's come out and my arms need a break!
14th July 2016: Cutting Vinyl I drew round the stencil onto the vinyl, be sure to do this the mirrored way round as the drawn on side will be face down when it's ironed on!
Then carefully cut into the vinyl only which is very thin. The clear backing stays intact to keep the whole thing aligned and easy to move, very clever.
13th July 2016: Stencils Using the bottom of the skirt pattern as an outline I am freehanding a design for the trim by merging all the concept art angles. They're not very consistant.
3rd July 2016: Trim Trials Ordered iron on vinyl from www.mdpsupplies.co.uk
They had two types of gold and I've never worked with iron on vinyl before, so I made lots of small testers with different combinations of fabric. Took a little practice, but it seems like it will do exactly what I need.
23rd June 2016: Hemming I got the petticoats on and stood on a stool to hem the skirt to length with a little help from a friend. It took ages!
22nd June 2016: Zip and Sleeves Added the zip to the dress and slip stitched the lining to it.
For the sleeves I layered the pink fabric over the skirt fabric so they would drape nicely and caught the bodice lining in the arm seam to secure it.
20th June 2016: Skirts The lining and skirts have been added now with just the front panel layered with pink like the bodice. The very bottom seams of the front panel have been left open to fit the trim on later.
You may notice the thin band at the waistline. I forgot to add onto the bottom of the bodice pattern when I raised the bustline to fit me, so the waist came out a little high. To keep the skirts long enough I added this extra strip knowing the sash belt will hide it in the end.
15th June 2016: Starting the Dress The pink fabric needs to be layered onto white fabric to stop it being see-through and give it some strength. I've decided to back the body of the dress in white cotton rather than the dress fabric because the dress fabric has a bit of give to it and the weight of all those skirts will stretch the body making it hard to predict how to shape it. This way it will stay exactly the same fit before and after the skirts are added.
Each panel was cut out twice; once in the white cotton and again a bit larger from the pink fabric so if it shifts I don't have to start again. These are sewn together inside the seam allowance with a long stitch to keep everything lined up.
The pattern was then sewn together normally before overlocking the seams to trim back that excess pink fabric and stop it fraying apart.
14th June 2016: Pattern Modifications Started with a mockup of the top of the dress, lengthening and slashing the sleeve pattern to get the baggy gathered sleeves I need.
13th June 2016: Butterick 4571 Using Butterick 4571 as a base for this costume, because the central panel design will allow me to fake her layered skirts.
This will nearly half the amount of fabric needed for the dress, mean I only need to pattern a front panel worth of trim and ensure the overlay is always laying straight for photos. Saving time, money and keeping it easy to wear!
12th June 2016: Picking Fabrics The white and teal fabrics were bought late last year, they're both the same lightweight draping fabric off a market stall.
Still undecided about whether I want the same fabric as the dress or a different texture for the cape to break up all that white. I got 10 meters so I should be able to do either way.
In the spirit of recycling I'm going to use the leftovers from Dahna and Maria to do all the red and black parts of the costume.
The pink was a trial to find. I wanted something subtle against the white and preferably as thick. I really didn't want the fuss of dealing with chiffon doubled up with a strength fabric, as even though the colour would be easy to get that way it's a nightmare for getting snagged and ruined.
After going through every shop and stall finding only peachy or bright pinks (and a billion perfect pink chiffons), I got a compromise fabric that might be a heavy georgette. It's still sheer enough that I'll have to back it on white, but it shouldn't destroy itself on contact and the colour is spot on. As an extra bonus it was £1 a meter for some marks at the edge and I got extra as it was the end of the roll!
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