Nomes avatar


I started cosplaying in 2010 with a couple of university friends who shared my interest but had also, like myself, lacked the guts to go it alone.

I started with FFX-2 Rikku because I thought it would be simple (no sewing patterns needed) and one of my friends (Acantane) wanted to cosplay Lulu from FFX which would marry up rather well. In 3 months of making it I learned how to sew (by hand at the time; no sewing machine then), knit and dye, I styled my first wig, I worked out like crazy for a toned stomach (luckily a lifetime of horse riding had given me a pretty good head start) and I made my first props.

But the best thing I learned through my first cosplay experience was how many friendly, approachable, helpful and encouraging people there are in the cosplay community.

I always try and learn something new with every cosplay. I will always do my damndest to make each of my cosplays something I can be proud of in one way or another. I love joining groups but I will not join one unless I can be 90% sure that I'll be able to follow through with the commitment.

If you have any questions about any aspect of any of my cosplays then please don't hesitate to ask; I'm flatterred that some people have been interested enough to do so. I believe whole heartedly in the exchange of cosplay-construction information to the benefit of all. I've learned so much from others and I'll give back in any way I can.

Last online 5 years ago

Joined: 19th Jul 2010

Completed costumes: 35

Photos uploaded: 122

Progress journals: 64

Events attended: 9

Slowly slowly catchy monkey. And yes the wig is slightly wonky on the wig head.

Initial style of the back and side, sectioned, and inserted fabric fo build fake hairline

Inigo from arda in platinum blonde

When two wigs become one ^_^

1. The original wig. I bought two identical versions of this wigs

2. I stripped the wefts from one of the wigs and pinned them into the second wig. Once they were pinned in place I plaited the hair length out of the way, flipped the wig inside out and stitched the wefts to the wig elastic

3. Double wefted wig! So much volume!

An experiment with Worbla. I may use Worbla to make the breastplate corsetty thing.
I came across this snakeskin leatherette and couldn't resist. It may not be render accurate but when the images of the character are low res I like to give myself a little lee-way. The colour is fantastic and the leatherette itself is lovely and soft with a light stretch. I'm going to need that stretch in those trousers!

Just a little proof that this cosplay is actually in progress. I'm also posting to kick myself off my procrastinating behind :)

I came across these on ebay. An easy start.

I actually started this sword last summer when I condiered going to Alcon.

Anyway please read on for a brief run through of the stages I went through to make the sword. I used Kamui's method.

1. PVC pipe
2. cut out shape of sword blade from cardboard and glued to PVC pipe
3. Expanding foam
4. Carve expanding foam
5. Paper mache (I actually just used duct tape but i wouldn't recommend this as it creates a low friction surface)
6. Paper clay
7. Sanding
8. More sanding
9. ...
15. ... Sculpt skulls from air dry clay
16. Glue skulls into position
17. Paint
18. Weather
19. Laquer
20. Grip - red leatherette

I hemmed a rectangular piece of white fabric 1.5m by 2m in diameter which was incredibly boring. I'm not sure what the fabric is but it doesn't crease easily, it hangs well, and it's pure white.

Here is where proceedings get a bit vague. Through draping and pinning I am attaching the fabric to the shouder pads to gain the desired shape. This is very much trial and error and ongoing but this is the effect so far. Once I'm happy with the pinning I will hand stitch the drapes into position.

Shoulderpads joined by wire (scavenged from a coat hanger) covered in more white stretch cotton. The wire was stitched into place through the cardboard of the shoulderpads.

More cotton was glued to the underside of the shoulder pads for neatness and in case it should ever come into view. Very little, if any, of the fabric currently covering these pads will be on show but this way as the fabric is white if it does show it will go unnoticed.

White stretch cotton scavenged from an old T-shirtstretched over the top of the cardboard and glued to the underside of the shoulder pad with PVA along the curved edge. The pocket created between the cotton and the cardboard was then stuffed with polyester stuffing until teh desired shape was achieved. The cotton was then stretched and glued along the underside of the straight edge.

PVA and strips of cotton torn from an old sheet combined in a paper mache fashion over the under and overside of the hot glue join. This smooths the join and adds strength to the bond. I also trimmed the straight edge to a more desirable curve as gluing the triangle together had warped the line.

Cardboard cut out folded into a curve. The two edges of the cut out triangle in the midle hot glued together.

A completed shoulder pad and the flat cardboard cut out of what will be the second.

At what point with cosplay do you start to wonder if you're taking things a little too far. I crossed that bridge whilst building Crying Wolf which is probably why I ended up making this. I'm still not 100% sure this will work but it was certainly an interesting learning experience.

I bound my chest with bandages and clinfilm. With the help of a very good friend we made a cast of my chest with alginate (for the shape)and modroc (for support). The alginate was freezing cold as it contains mint. The menthol in the mint binds to cold receptors which results in the sensation of cold. We ended up having to cast twice becase cast 1 collapsed. I was shivering uncontrollably by the end.

From this negative cast (After a few plasticine repairs) I cast a positive from plaster of Paris. Onto this I built my pecs out of plasticine. Then I took a negative cast of the pecs, again with plaster of Paris, before making a positive cast out of latex. I then coloured the latex. I may recast at some point with silicone but for my first cast I wanted to keep things as cheap as possible and my research recommended latex as a starting place. Just FYI it wasn't all that cheap; just cheaper than it could have been.

I'll put up a blow by blow account either on here or on DA if and only if I decide that this is going to work. I don't want to talk people through a project that ultimately fails.

I replayed the game a short time before October Expo and with the help of the end credits character shots it became apparent that Ashelin's boots are round rather than square toed. As my original pair of boots are in a rather... 'interesting' (read: cracked to pieces) state after Expo I decided to remake and revamp.

This is the result. They started out as brown leather boots with various strappy accoutrements. I removed the straps and sanded down the leather before painting with two shades of blue acrylic. Uneven sanding added a third shade of blue to the mix as the leather absorbed the paint to varying degrees in different places resulting in a marbled effect which I rather like. I coloured the rim of the sole using a silver marker pen and then heat formed craft foam around the toe and heel of the boot for the armoured sections. The craft foam was painted with multiple layers of red acrylic.

I used my original boots spikes and inserted them through a hole cut in the craft foam armour before gluing both spikes and armoured sections to the boots using Hi-tack glue. I stretched the craft foam during gluing to reduce the chance of any ripples. The straps and buckles were ripped from my original boots and also attached with hi tack glue. Presto!

I bought a pair of beige sandals on ebay that I decided were close enough to the right shape to be workable. I then sanded them down beore painting with acrylics. I debated for a good while between whether to hav elight blue or white shoes but in the end I went with teh general consensus that they are indeed light blue.

The flowers are orange and yellow craft foam attached with fabric glue. The flowers should really be the same width as the toe strap but with these particular shoes that would just look ridiculous (think ginormous shoe devouring flowers). I may trim the strap at a later date but I currently like the base shoes too much to deface them further.

Involved scissors, Got2b glued spiking glue, a can and a half of hairspray and hi-tack fabric glue.

80cm to a metre grey mix wig. At £12 I was unsure of the quality I could expect. I was pleasantly surprised.

Today I started the dress. It's made from white lycra. I chose lycra as the stretch would reduce the number of seams needed in the dress and it is available in stark white. It also doesn't fray which makes the scalloping much easier.

I used an exsting dress to mock up a pattern. I started off with a 2 panel dress but then added an extra seam down the back and a couple of darts in front to give it a bit more shape. I wanted to keep the front as a single panel as Namine's dress looks so, well, seamless. I actually hemmed the neckline and the armholes with a ig-zag stitch rather than using bias tape or overfacing. I didn't feel either of the other two techniques would work well for lycra.

All that's left for the dress is the scalloped bottom hem but that will have to wait until i get some new scissors. I don't want to mess it up by hacking at the fabric with the scissors I'm currently using.

I've made the gi and I'm in love with my mahoosive trousers. I could have made two or three regular pairs of trousers from the fabric that has gone into these. Before pleating the waistband was 66 inches. ^_^

I have all the fabric and all the parts for the wig (hopefully the plan will work). Yesterday I made a start on a shoe. Today I finished that shoe. The picture shows the completed shoe beside the base shoe.

To make the shoe, I levered off the base shoe sole around the edge so that later I could tuck in the edges of the new fabric covering for a neater finish. Then I took strips of orange chiffon and glued them into pleats which took rather a long time, though was speeded up with the help of a heat gun. For the ankle padding I double up a piece of fabric and sewed a line about an inch and a half from the fold before stuffing the tube created.

Finally I glued the sole back into place. Presto. Now to do the other one...

This is more of a cape than a top. I've made a black lycra boob tube to wear underneath as this seems to be what the reference images indicate. The boob tube will ultimately be attached to the suspenders for security.

The cape/top is made out of fake leather in two parts: The part with the cross and the part with the studs. The two parts were later sewn together. The lower part is lined with black fabric I had lying around. The top part is doubled up leatherette with black leatherette zigzag stitched to the border like piping. I found that wrapping the cape around my arms severely restricted movement so the top is connected at the front by a length of elastic to increase manoeuvrability. I intend to sew additional loops of elastic into the sides to slip around my arms for further security.

Cross: Cardboard base. Clay on top.

Studs: These were made out of craft foam and iron on nail heads. I haven't counted the studs since I finished, but there are over one hundred of them.

So far I've made the hip belt with the skull and the two waist belts with the eyelets. Most of the eyelets are fake (black 3D paint painted silver). Some of the eyelets are real only because I uncovered an eyelet belt in my wardrobe.

Well I'm waiting for 1. materials to arrive and 2. a trip to the fabric shop so I can't start construction of my next top project yet, so I thought I'd continue tossing Paine together from what I had lying around.

The picturesd trousers stared life as high waisted tight leather trousers. Add elastic, scissors, red leatherette, a sewing machine and time and this is the result.

My plan is to have the elastic doing the main holding together for the sides of the trousers, which will then be forgiving of any shape change I should go through between now and whenever I actually wear this. I'll add decorative straps and buckles/fake buckles over the top at a later date.

I also decided to have the red leatherette between the parts of the straps seperate from the braces even though they look like one continuous piece in the ref pics. This is for manouvarability more than anything

Best case scenario I'll wear this to go with Furiephoenix's Rikku at Kitacon 201,2 but this will depend on time and money. I figured I can finish as much as I can and then if I find I can afford it, it won't be such a last minute rush.

I’d always planned to make this to wear inside the Beast Suit. When I saw Odangochan’s Laughing Octopus I just had to ask if she would be interested in a photo shoot at some point once both cosplays were complete. I was extremely pleased when she agreed and it turned out she was also interested in making a Beauty version of her Beast. Well if we were already having a photoshoot why not match the suits for maximum awesomeness?

Fabric: We both hunted high and low for fabric. We’d agreed that wet look lycra was the way to go, but it doesn’t come in the greatest colour range. Odangochan found black and silver/grey wet look lycra in a shop on Goldhawk lane in London and she sent me a metre of each. After extensive further hunting on both our parts and multiple fabric samples, Odangochan then experimented with dying the silver wet look lycra with iDye. We both had our fingers crossed. Synthetic fabrics are notorious for dying poorly. But success! And we had our fabric.

Pattern: Odangochan very kindly sent me a pattern for 4 panel bodysuit which she’d made by cutting up a catsuit she had lying around. After making a mock up with some cheap lycra, I used Kwik sew pattern 3052 to cut Odangochan’s pattern down to my size.

I drew up a seam breakdown using multiple in game images. In this I included all the wording and bar codes that were located in various places on the suits. To get them I replayed the game with the help of an indulgent friend who played paparazzi in the boss beauty and the Beast battles. I couldn’t have added this element of accuracy without him. After discussion, Odangochan and I decided which seams we would do, and which were simply illogical as well as how we were going to put the suits together.

To start with I made a sleeveless short legged silver body suit. Initially I’d intended to add dark grey arms and legs and then stitch the black bands over the top, but in the end I did inset these black panels. All the panelling on the main body, however, was stitched on top of the short body suit before the arms and legs were added.

There was a clear black zip in the back of the suit in the reference images which was helpful however it was hard to tell whether the black strip at the front of the chest was a tab or a zip. In the end we voted for zip as this could more easily be centralised.

I drew out the patterns for the main body panels by measuring out the correct positions on the short suit whilst I was wearing it and then transferring these measurements to the paper pattern. As the number differed between the sections of the suit I then had to adlib a little. Thankfully, lycra is forgiving.

For the collar, we sandwiched black wet look lycra between silver wet look lycra.

For my gloves I used this tutorial:

For the socks (which I love), I used this tutorial:

Cabling: As Odangochan dyed the fabric, I worked on the cabling. Using genuine cabling would have limited flexibility, so I substituted elastic. Circular elastic made up the cables on the chest, forearms, ears, and ankles. Boot lace ferrules took the place of jack plugs. The time consuming one was the scart cabling. I used 25mm flat black elastic and then painstakingly drew five parallel lines with 3D fabric paint onto 10 metres of the stuff. Five metres was more than I needed in the end, but I wanted to make sure we had enough.
I glued black wet look lycra to the ends of the scart cabling and then wrote out the wording exactly as it appears on the suit using a paintbrush, white acrylic paint and a lot of patience. Some of the wording had to be painted directly onto the suit and I did worry that the stretch would later warp the writing. I couldn’t paint carefully enough whilst wearing the suit though, so I decided to chance it.

To attach all the elastic I used Hi tack glue as recommended by Odangochan. It worked really well in the sense that it cope with the stretch of the fabric and didn’t unstuck despite ending and stretching. On the downside, it did mark the fabric in places where I let the fabric slip during drying. I had to glue the elastic to the bodysuit whilst I was wearing it and use a hairdryer to help it dry as I went along. The staining could have been avoided with the help of a second pair of hands but with Expo a couple of days away at this point I didn’t have the time.


I think we were both extremely pleased with the results. Odangochan was a pleasure to work with and by the time I actually met her at Expo it certainly felt odd that I was only meeting for the first time someone I’d come to know rather well. It was lovely to make a new cosplay friend and spend the day with her. Thanks to her, I also got to take an up close and personal look at a Eurocosplay costume which for me, as a relative cosplay novice, was a big highlight of the weekend.

Thank you Odangochan for teaching me about lycra and for being such a great help to somone you’d, technically, only just met! :P

The aim was to make this cosplay cheaply and out of things I already had readily available. It cost about £53 to make but that was pretty much just the wig. Everything else I found around the home.

Jacket: I took a denim jacket, cropped it short and then added brown leatherette, which I already had lying around from my Miss Cloud cosplay, to the bottom edge and around the collar. For the shoulder pads I cut the cups of an old bra to shape, painted them with acrylics and stitched them in place.

Trousers: An old pair of baggy jeans. I tightened the fit before cutting out
and hemming the rectangular gaps at thigh level. The fabric had a tendency to droop rather than maintain the shape of the gap so I darted the corners to better support the shape. I used the cut off from the jacket to make the straps across the middle of the gap. A stretch denim might have supported itself more effectively

Belts: I used an old leather school back, chopped it up and turned it into straps, with elastic inserted around the back for ease of pulling them on and off. For the metal work, I cut up rectangles of 6mm foam, sealed then with PVA and painted them silver before gluing them at intervals to the hip, left leg and left arm belts. The red buckle on the hip belt is also painted 6mm foam. I intend to replace the foam rectangles with silver hair barrettes for durability. What with people knocking into me as inevitably happens at Expo, I was shedding foam all day. In the end I ripped all the foam from the back of the belt and reglued the pieces to the front so that at least I could get decent front pictures. I intend to replace the foam pieces with metal hair barrettes. Hot glue has its uses but durability is not one of them.

Gun holster: A piece of the same brown leather school bag fitted around an old water pistol to form a pocket.

Gun: An old water pistol painted appropriately with a strip of brown leatherette around the handle.

Boob tube: Two rectangles of stretch red fabric left over from my Miss Cloud cosplay stitched together. I didn’t even hem it as the fabric is non-fray. I also used a section of this fabric for the right arm band by cutting out a rectangle and sewing the edges together.

Armour (arm): 6mm foam shaped with a heat gun. The spike is made from expanding foam carved into a spike and covered with filler before sanding. It was glued to the heat formed foam and the edges were filled with Caulk to produce a seamless appearance. I stitched black elastic to the underside of the armour at the wrist and mid forearm positions. The structure was then sealed with PVA before being painted red with acrylics after which I added a few more layers of
PVA as for a glossy finish.

Gloves: £2.50 blue gloves. I bought these rather than make them as I had no particular need for 1 metre of blue fabric at the time. The spikes and red armoured squares on the back of the gloves was constructed in the same way as the arm armour. I applied the same technique to make the knee spikes.

Boots: Mum was throwing out an old pair of black boots one of which had lost the base of its heel. They were the wrong colour and completely the wrong shape but they were free. I used 6mm rubber back EVA foam to create a new correctly shaped sole. I placed the boot on the new woles and drew around them before sanding out a hollow with a Dremel multitool into which the boot could be slotted. I used two section of foam for each soles: one for the heel and one for the rest of the sole. I then used applied expanding foam on top of the EVA, being careful not to drip expanding foam on any section of the boots I didn’t want covered. The aim was to hide the kitten heel and square out the toe. Once dry, I carved the expanding foam, covered the it in polyfilla, sanded this down and added a few layers of PVA before painting the result with Light grey acrylic.

For the rest of the boot, I sanded the leather before painting the boots themselves blue with acrylics. Sanding the leather promoted colour retention and prevented cracking. The boots already had straps around the top which I removed and used to create the straps across the feet. The fake buckles are made out of 6mm EVA foam. The red armoured sections at heel and toe were again made from 6mm EVA foam. The spikes at the toe are expanding foam and polyfilla as described earlier. In some images Ashelin’s boots are square toed and in others round. I intend to remake the boots using a more appropriate base and round toes. Walking around all day at Expo has rather broken up my home made soles but they served their purpose and I find myself not caring to much when things break as long as they were cheap to make.

Wig: I bought a blonde dreadlock wig and dyed it with acrylic ink and surgical spirit. I had to use a LOT of ink and spirits as the dreads just drank it up. I left the wig for a few hours before washing it with cold water until the water ran clear. Once the wig had dried, I cut off all the dreads. The wig cap was horribly shapeless so I stitched in some red fabric I’d pulled out of the lining of a coat to make side burns and a widow’s peak. I then pinned the dreads into place and once I was happy with the position I glued them down with hot glue. Some of the dreads were spliced together to make longer dreads. By this point I wasn’t happy with the vibrancy of the wig’s colour so I sprayed another layer of dye over the finished wig.

Face paints: I used a grey eyeliner pencil to mark the outline of the tattoos before filling in the gaps with a light grey water based face paint. This stayed in place all day without smudging.

I don't want to jinx anything but I think this Monster is read to roll on Sunday! It's been a year in the making and I can finally see the light.

Gloves complete. Sewing them bu hand was a bore but alas my machine couldn't cope with such narrow seam allowances.

Socks are complete and I love them so much. I might have to make myself some slippers from the pattern.

All rivet details are complete bar a couple of odd ones which i need to create from craft foam, sand a cranny to embed them and then glue them in place.

Stirrups have been added to the bodysuit

To Do:

I just have some paintwork left to do as well as some rivet detailing on this Beast.

My gloves are almost finished. Tonight I shall complete them and make socks.

This Beast is killing me but it will be done in time. The inner body suit is well on its way to completion. The helmet is done, the wiring is complete. I have some more painting sewing and construction to do. I get home from work in the evenings and work on this until I go to bed everyday. Sleep hours are becoming fewer. I'm busy at work too and so haven't been able to take any time off.

A friend is staying with me at the moment and he started playig MGS4 again. He has been Snake the Paparazzi and has spent ages in the Frozen Tundra taking pictures of Crying WOlf from all angles. On the plus side, I can see a lot of details. On the down side, I can see a lot of details...

Lights XP. Battery powered multifunctional fairy lights threaded through the gun.

Sanding, Priming, more sanding, more priming, painting.

4 hours and almost 250ml of Impakt glue later...

EVA foamto add bulk and stiffness and basic detailing. Some stiff cardboard as an underayer, again for stiffness.

The progress on the hind legs and a view from above of the hind feet.

I had to handpaint the Werewolf symbol onto both shoulders. I'm rather pleased with how they came out.

There's a long way to go with the gun. I just hope I can pull off my first attempt at making a gun prop. So far this is a layer of 1" thick insulation foam.

Started putting together the components for the hind legs at the weekend. I didn't get as far along as I'd hoped as I was struck down with gastroenteritis but the idea is there. It is logistically impossible to be 100% accurate to Crying Wolf's proportions, at least at my level of ability, but I'm doing my best.

Upon review of the photos I have let down the shorts which has the added bonus of making my legs look more boyish. The new wig has also arrived ready for styling. I probably won't be re-using this cosplay until Kitacon (I hope) next year, though I may try ad fit in a shoot before then.

I went into a fancy dress shop today for spirit gum and they were selling dogtags. I picked one up with a chain. Hopefully this one won't blow around in the wind like my homemade tag.

Today I got hold of face paint and spirit gum so I may do a make up test soon. I might also add another layer of dye to the styled wig. The dreads soak up moisture and there are a few places which didn't take up the dye as much as I would like. I'm hoping another surface coat might do the trick.

I'm just not happy with the colour of the wig. it was much more orange than it looked in pictures but such is the risk. Wigfever has this wig on sale at the moment though so I have ordered one. The colour looks perfect but we'll see...

Flip the pouch right side out

Fold in half whilst still inside out and and stitch the thin strips together as marked by the pins.

Sew on the thin strips as pictured

Attaching the opening/closing flap to the body of the pouch.

I made pouches for Rikku, but after studying the references these appear to be of a slightly different construction. I cut out the shapes pictured from a grey/beige leatherette. Only 2of the 4 thin strips used per pouch are pictured.

Etching, etching, etching all the grooves into the armour with a pen and a pin and an Xacto blade. The front legs are proving the msot difficult as they were the first part constructed and as such as made from a different material to the rest (a softer foam which required reinforcing with decorator's caulk which I only later contemplated would be difficult to scrape away). We shall see.

Paine is officially on a backburner as Furiephoenix is not sure when she'll be doing Rikku and I'm currently more engaged by Rin, Echidna and Crying Wolf. The trousers have been cut and pinned thought, ready for sewing, and tomorrow I'm going fabric shopping and I have both black and red fake leather on my list (for another cosplay but it's funny how things work out).

I had originally hoped to use a second pair of leather trousers to make the top but after constructing a pattern from an old bed sheet I think I really need one continuous length of fabric.

I pinned the dreadlocks in place before gluing them down with hot glue. I started with the dreads along the hairline and then plugged any gaps and added volume to the back of the wig by adding further dreads. The dreads were trimmed so that they would hang at the back ogf the wig at the same level. Some dreads were glued together to add length.

I removed all the dreads from the wig and trimmed down the remaining fibres to minimise the bulk under the dreads when I relayed them whilst still keeping the wig mesh hidden.

The reults of dying the wig. I sewed in a tringle of red fabric at the front of the wig mesh where the widow's peak would be as well as side burns because the wig mesh turned out to be annoyingly shapeless.

I used Flame Red FW acrylic ink, a black permanent marker and a litre and a half of surgical spirit to dye the wig. The dreads just drank the solution. I then left the wig to dry overnight before washing it in cold water until the water ran clear.

After pondering my options I decided to purchase a white blonde dreadlock wig as a base.

Paint the ears to match your own skin tone. I used acrylics with highlights and lowlight to create ridge definition. Attach to self with spirit gum.

Place another line of hot glue as shown in the picture to plug the gap between the two flaps of craft foam. Sand this smooth.

I then applied glue to the upper flap of the ear tip and between the hot glue ridges. Once the glue was tacky I folded down the upper flap and pressed the craft foam into the crevices formed by the hot glue ridges in order to give the illusion of a textured surface.

I retraced the ear ridge lines with hot glue making sure that the line of hot glue around the edge of the ear was thicker than those in the middle to give the illusion of a shell. If you don’t have a hot glue gun then rolled up newspaper glued down should give the same effect. At this point I also glued the short ear tip to the craft foam as shown in the picture. I used UHU glue for this.

I adapted this from a tutorial I found online. Few companies make long ear tips therefore they are fairly expensive so I decided to make my own using a pair of cheaper, short latex ear tips as a base as I already had short ear tips from Tinkerbell.
I placed the ear tips onto a sheet of 3mm craft foam (I chose yellow as skin has yellow undertones and any wear and tear would be more likely to blend but any colour should work) and used these to gauge the width of the new ear tip. I decided how long I wanted the ear tips to be and then drew essentially a triangle to join these three points. I then folded the craft foam along the line of what would be the upper edge of the new ear tip before cutting out along my lines. In this way my ear tips would have a front and a back. I then marked out in chalk where I wanted my ear ridges to be.

Well i've just ordered a 62inch wide blonde weft so that I can add volume to the front of Miss Cloud's hair which will allow for more detailed styling. I ran out of hair last time and only managed to incorporate enough for the pigtails.

It slipped back... Next time more pins. Hmm I already used an entire pack of bobby pins.

Also the bracelet will need redoing due to some frayage of the ribbon, but that's easy enough.

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