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11 Feb 2012 - 10:5578727
Please help, this pattern does not make sense
I am using this pattern to make a suit for my Phantom R costume.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/260812449259?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649#ht_3657wt_1163

The problem is that the instructions for attaching the collar make no sense.

Quote:

10. Stitch Collar strand pieces to upper and lower collar pieces, right side facing, matching seam number (4). Trim all seam allowances. Top stitch close to both sides of each seam, thereby catching allowances.

11. Stitch under collar to jacket fronts from each horizontal mark to corner, matching seam numbers (5). Stitch upper collar to front facings in the same manner matching seem numbers (7). Clip allowances of jacket fronts and facings into corners up to last stitch.

12. Stitch under collar to to neck edge from corner to corner. Stitch uper collar to facings in same manner. Clip allowances and press seams.



It goes on a bit more but this is what is giving me the trouble. I just can't work out how each part of the collar is supposed to attach to each other and the rest of the jacket. Has anyone used this pattern before? Have any idea what it means?


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11 Feb 2012 - 13:0678734
Any chance you can post photos of the pieces and say where the seam numbers are?

[eta] No idea what they're talking about in step 10, but steps 11 and 12 seem to describe a regular collar construction:





Without looking at the pattern, I'm obviously just guessing though. It sounds like they want you to do under collar + main jacket as one thing, and upper collar + front facings as another thing, and then sew the two things together?



Last edited by Pez (11 Feb 2012 - 13:28)
11 Feb 2012 - 14:1578737
If it instructs the tailoring of a standard suit jacket collar-
Are the back and front collar pieces sewn by step 10?
Step 10
Can I assume collar strand is collar stand?
if this is the case then this is the strip of fabric that lies between your main collar bit and the neck line of the back of the garment.
All it's telling you is to stitch the two main pieces of your collar (the upper piece the bit that will be visible and the under piece the bit that will be hidden from view when the collar is folded over) to their corresponding collar stand piece, trim the seam allowance then fold the seam allowance so it lies evenly on either side of the stitchline then iron the seam allowance and topstitch it on either side of the seam allowance so that your folded seam allowance is nicely held in place by the topstitching. Since you aren't tailoring this for anyone, you could skip the topstitching bit but it does keep thing nice and tidy.
From this point on the combined collar stand and clooar piece are regarded as one piece. So when it gets to step 12 you're actually stitching the bottom edge of the collar stands to the neck edge or front face edge.
Everything Pez has said should hold true.



Last edited by Ninodog (11 Feb 2012 - 14:42)
12 Feb 2012 - 11:2078772
Thanks guys.

Turns out I had misplaced the front facing pieces. Once I had those it started making a lot more sense.


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18 Feb 2012 - 11:5979159
Things don't seem to be going well with this again. The lapels don't seem to fit properly. The seams aren't coming together neatly.

Here's all the instructions for the collar and the illustrations as well.

Quote:

10. Stitch Collar stand pieces to upper and lower collar pieces, right side facing, matching seam number (4). Trim all seam allowances. Top stitch close to both sides of each seam, thereby catching allowances.

11. Stitch under collar to jacket fronts from each horizontal mark to corner, matching seam numbers (5). Stitch upper collar to front facings in the same manner matching seem numbers (7). Clip allowances of jacket fronts and facings into corners up to last stitch.

12. Stitch under collar to to neck edge from corner to corner. Stitch uper collar to facings in same manner. Clip allowances and press seams.

13. Pin upper collar to under collar, easing extra length of upper collar from outer edges. Stitch collar pieces together between attachment seams, making sure to not catch allowances of collar attachment seams on jacket fronts and facings. Clip allowances on jacket fronts and facing clipping up to the last stitch at each horizontal mark (arrow).

14. Turn seam allowances up. Pin each to jacket front from each horizontal mark, at lapel easing extra length from out edge. Stitch edges together. Trim seam allowances, including those on collar, at hem edge trimming allowances only up to 2cm from facing edges. Trim allowances across corners

15. Turn collar right side out. Turn facings to inside. Baste edges and press. Roll under collar and jacket fronts along marked fold line. Baste with diagonal basting stitches. Working from inside, use back stitches to hand-stitch collar attachment seems together.




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