|Having completed my under-bust corset I'm a lot more confident with the materials and methods so I'm moving on to a full length version. If it turns out ok I'll primarily use it with my Una costume and I have some victorian dresses planned which need to be fitted over an 1860-90s style corset like this.|
The main challenges are that this will be much harder to fit than the under bust and it will be a two layer corset, so some different techniques from my single layer under-bust.
Tiny waists? Not so. (Posted 3rd February 2013)
Found this really interesting blog on dress sizes in Victorian times - The same as they are now really :)
Cutting Coutil (Posted 13th January 2013)
Second fitting with the boning in showed that the back panel didn't curve in to the waist enough. Once that was fixed I could transfer all those adjustments to the paper pattern.
I used the tweaked pattern to cut the final corset panels. I'm using coutil with a cotton lining, just two layers as I don't need a fancy fabric on the outside. There are pencil markings all over these pieces, they seem to have just vanished in the photo.
Handy tip: when pinning the coutil try to keep the pins in the seam allowances as the tightly woven fabric can end up with visible pin holes.
Mock Up (Posted 11th January 2013)
The link in the previous entry is 100% correct about the adjustments needed for this particular pattern! I cut this first fitting to their suggested size and it's a pretty close match, just needed pinning in two places.
Now I'll sew those two tweaks in and add cheap plastic boning for a second fitting to stop it wrinkling up as I'm checking the fit.
For mock-ups you add an inch to each back panel to account for the two inch lacing gap on a finished corset. I marked the real panel edge and wrote FITTING GAP down the extra material and I still found myself wondering why panel 5 wouldn't match the pattern a few times >.<
Pattern (Posted 9th January 2013)
I'm using Laughing Moon #100 and starting with the Dore as it's the simpler of the two styles included.
Handy note to anyone using this pattern - The sizes marked on the packaging are relative to the B cup pattern only, for accurate sizes and advice on which cup size to choose from people who've actually made up the pattern see this page: http://trulyvictorian.com/LM100.html