|Cost :||Around: £250|
|Awards :||"Most Detailed" Judges Choice award at London MCM Expo (October 2011)|
|Time Taken :||around 250 hours|
|Ended up seeing this movie, fell in love with the movie, Its settings, the designs everything. This Dress immediately went on the " I MUST do that, Even it it kills me list"|
Realistically I could not do this dress until I bought the embroidery machine I currently own. Which I could only afford once I started working full time.
This probably turned out to be one of the most labour intensive costumes I have created to date.
Most of the work went into the corset. Its fully steel boned with a concealled eyelet closure at the back. Two types of hand dyed guipure lace, hand dyed embroidered motifs and braids were hand sewn onto the corset base to mimic the original lace.
I created embroidered flowers using my embroidery machine and hand sewed strips of organza fabric to create smaller organza flowers. These decrorate the front of the corset and the straps.
The skirts were made using gradient dyed chiffon.
The final touches were a styled curly wig, gold heart locket and hand decorated shoes to match!
I also created the Bandits costume, which was modelled by my boyfriend, Alan.
In all this turned out to be a very expensive costume, as I made it out of lace and silks, But I'm very happy with the results.
I definetly plan to wear it again in the future for a proper shoot!
|Gold heart Locket - Ebay||£8.35||Bought|
|Silk Dupion - peach - Skirt - 1 meter||£8.95||Bought|
|Lilac Silk Dupion - Flowers - 1 meter||£8.00||Bought|
|Corsetry Supplies (Spiral wire, Bull demin & Eyelets)||£15.00||Bought|
|Two tone chiffon - 2 meters & 1 meter - two colours||£5.00||Bought|
|Gradient dyed silk geogette (4 meters)||£22.50||Bought|
|Soluble stabliser - 1x1 meter - Ebay||£4.70||Bought|
|Shoes - Peach peep toe shoes for base - Ebay||£23.90||Bought|
|Acrylic Inks x3 - Online art shop.||£12.80||Bought|
|Silk Dupion - Peach - 1 meter - Cheapfabrics.co.uk||£8.95||Bought|
|Guipure lace - 1 Yard - American Ebay seller||£40.00||Bought|
|Guipure Lace - half meter - MacCulloch and Wallis||£30.00||Bought|
|Auburn Curly Wig - Ebay||£30.00||Bought|
Costume - Skirt (Posted 22nd December 2010)
I was very lucky to be able to find gradient dyed silk chiffon fabric in shepards bush. This saved alot of pain when it came to making the skirt.
I played around with the fabric on my dress form, until I was happy with the shape, gathering and drape. The top edges were encased in bias binding and the skirts sections (there are two) were stitched to the corset itself, making it a dress.
The fabirc was hemmed using my overlocker! I made a quick pair of peach silk shorts to wear underneath the skirt, as it is of a see through nature!
Corset - Part 5 - Flowers (Posted 22nd December 2010)
I hand stitched straps onto the corset, these were made from interfaced purple raw silk.
The straps were then covered in chiffon to provide a base for all of the flowers. As I created the flowers I pinned them onto the corset and straps using the reference picture as a guide. I also added extra strips of chiffon and silk to bulk the design out, as well as a few other lace motifs I picked up from barnett and lawson (again dyed with inks)
Once I was happy with the placement (there was lots of rearranging!), I removed the corset from the dress from and hand stitched all of the flowers down.
It was then FINALLY COMPLETE!
Flower construction. (Posted 22nd December 2010)
The Flowers that decorate the neckline of this costume were one of the main reasons as to why I couldn't have made this costume without my embroidery machine. (without going clinically insane)
I designed three different shapes ( 5 petal, 4 petal and 3 petal) using embroidery software. This consists of sketching out the intial deisgn in pencil on paper, once I was happy with it, I then created a black line drawing of the deisgn. This was scanned into my computer and digitised using my embroidery software. I used a satin stich fill around the edges and a running stitch pattern in center of each petal.
I could stitch 5 flowers at a time using my largest embroidery hoop. I layered two tone chiffon on top of purlpe raw silk and one again used dissolvable stabilizer to stabilise the design on the bottom.
Once the flowers were stitched, they were cut out, Soaked overnight and dried.
I also made around 30 organza flowers (not pictured here), these were created by gathering and twisting strips of overlocked two tone organza. The Flowers were then finished off by sticthing a piece of lace into the centre to conceal the gathering.
Lace - Motifs (Posted 22nd December 2010)
Here is a quick picture showing some of the motifs deisgned by me and embroidered using my embroidering machine. I deisgned 6 motifs in total, a leaf, daisy, tulip, alluim, swirly thing and daffodill (at a best guess!)
They were all stitched onto organza and dissolvable stabilizer. Each motif was then cut out and soaked in water to remove the stabilizer over night. (First motif on the left). I initally tried to make them without the organza, which was a total failure as the designed then proceeded to unravel!
They were then dyed lilac with acrylic inks (Middle motif)
and finally highlighted using acyrlic ink with a paintbrush (Last motif on the right)
Lace - Dying (Posted 22nd December 2010)
I took a gamble and dyed all of the lace using acrylic inks (FW artists inks), something I had never tried before. The results turned out well.
The technique mostly consisted of me mixing up a base dye of ink and water in a bowl. Using Rubber gloves I then dropped the lace into the bowl, lifted it out and squeezed out the excess.
I haven't tested it fully, but I believe that the lace is relatively water resistant. But I will not be risking this costume out in the rain!
Corset - Part 4 - Complete (Posted 22nd December 2010)
Here is a picture of the corset completed. Now I need to add the straps, the the lace and flowers that travels from the bottom, up around the neckline and across the straps to the back.
Overall I am very pleased with how the corset has worked out!
Corset - Part 4 - Decorative lace (Posted 22nd December 2010)
After adding the base lace, I then proceeded to stitch on sections of the other "ebay" guipure lace and my own designed motifs based of the reference picture. These motifs were designed on my laptop and then embroidered by my embroidery machine. I will describe this process later using the flowers as an examples. All of the lace and motifs were dyed again using acrylic inks.
I posistioned the lace sections and motifs onto the corset whilst it was on my dress form and pinning to secure. Once I was happy with the layout, I took the corset off the dress form and hand stitched all of the lace down. I was careful to make sure that my stitching was not visable on the inside of the corset.
I worked the pattern in sections, using the reference picture to mimic the original lace as closely as possible. I used dyed russia braid for the stems and pieces of the "ebay" lace for the leaves.
Corset - Part 3 - Base Lace (Posted 22nd December 2010)
I covered the entire corset in a layer of the MacCollouch and Wallis lace, which I had dyed Lilac with acrylic ink. (I will explain this more in another journal post)
Corset - Part 2 - Base (Posted 16th September 2010)
After the mock up was completed I could continue on to make the corset.
There are 4 layers to the corset, cotton lining, Bull denim interlining, Iron on interlining and Silk dupion.
I mentioned in an earlier journal that I did not want any eyelets to be visable at the back of the corset. Since most of the Structure is in the lining, the lining does up with eyelets, this provides the corset structure and shape.
The system is a bit hard to describe, hopefully it is easier to see in the picture!
Its now ready to be covered in lace!
Corset - Part 1 - Mocking up (Posted 16th September 2010)
I've been making corsets for years, however this is the first time that I have drafted my own pattern for one based off my measurements.
One I was hapy with the fit (It still require adjustment) I used a fabric pen to mark the seams and ripped the thing apart to provide me with a pattern for the final corset.
Shoes Part 2 (Posted 16th September 2010)
Shoes arrived! and Fitted! (First win!)
I then stitched some of the ink dyed lace over the fabric areas. I'm pleased with the outcome. (Third Win!)
Shoes Part 1 (Posted 16th September 2010)
In the movie the actress is bare footed. Whilst this is very comfortable, it is not ideal for a busy ball!
So I have decided that I will buy a nomal pair of high heels but hem the skirt to allow me to wear the costume with no shoes.
After searching all of ebay, I decided on a basic pair of peach peep toes shows with an ankle strap. This is so that I can decorate them in a similar way to the corset. (i.e ripping off whatever it is stuck on the front of them)
The base guipure laces (Posted 2nd September 2010)
Guipure or Venise laces are thick embroidered style of lace. I'm guessing that the manufactures embroider them onto a soluble stablizer to create the look.
I've choosen two laces with a wide netted background them. Both are flower and swirl based. I'm planning on using one as a base and cutting the other out and stitching it on top.
The lace of the left was bought from Ebay (it is yet to arrive from america!) at £40 for 1 meter. The lace on the right was bought from MacCulloch and wallis. A very expensive designer fabric shop in london last year. I bought half a metre for £30. Nice guipure laces are not cheap (my bank balance is crying!)
The Corset (Posted 2nd September 2010)
Even at first look, the corset construction was pretty simple (in theory!). The structure of the corset is made out of a peachy skin coloured fabric, with a lilac lace overlay on top. The Flowers and neckline lace are then connected to straps, which are purely decorative.
I have chosen to make the corset out of peach dupion silk from cheapfabrics.co.uk. The fabric is very thick and strong, which is important for corsetry and I've worked with it many times before. (its the same fabric that I made kozue out of)
The costume (Posted 2nd September 2010)
On first pass this costume looks like a corset, with attached straps (though they don't seem to hold the top up) and a skirt.
There is mabye one reference for this costume on the internet, I was luckly enough to stumble across hi-resolution picture someone had taken of the costume when it was on display at an exhibit in LA. This does not seem to be the costume that everyone thinks of when you mention the fall, but in my opinion its the most beautiful out of all of them.
I ended up buying the DVD of the movie (tbh its an amazing movie to own) and using the computer to take several screen shots of the costume. I managed to get some good close ups of the neckline, as well as other factors like hair and jewelery.