Angelphie
 


Costume :Reith
Source :Magna Carta: Crimson Stigmata/Tears of Blood
Progress :Complete
Worn At :Minami Con 17 (2011)


Costume Photos

Reith

Reith and Lehas

Petals!

Reith and Lehas

Reference

Reference

Reference

 


Costume Information

General
Cost : Again, totally lost track - probably a good thing
Time Taken : I completely lost track

Description
This has been lurking on my to-do list forever, since I love yellow and Hyung-tae Kim's art. I had a heap of yellow fabric in my stash and I discovered in the process of patterning my Brawler costume that they're very similar designs, so that finally encouraged me to make the costume! I started it in time for AmeCon 2010, but realised I was too short on time and put it aside. I then went back to it and finished it time for MinamiCon 2011.

The dress started out with a mock-up. I began with the pattern I’d made for my Brawler costume, then cut out slightly different shapes for the petals, and continued to alter it from there. The dress looks like it should fasten at the front, but there’s so much detail there, I decided to avoid that. Instead, it has an invisible zip down one side and can pull over my head.

There’s wire inside the petals to make them stick out, much like my Brawler costume again. I shaped the wire to match the dress, and the wires are duct taped together, mostly at the waist to make a sort of waistband and anchor it all. The dress is only lined up to the waist, making the petals presentable from both sides, and forming a pocket to enclose the wire framework. Ending the lining there lets me lift the wire out to more easily iron, transport and store the costume (or to be able to sit down whilst wearing it!) The waistband for the wire velcros to the top of the dress lining where it ends at the waist, then fastens around my waist. That waistband both supports the framework and keeps the dress lining in place. It took some adjustment to ensure that it wouldn’t show through the cutouts in the back of the dress.

Most of the trim on the dress was bias binding but there’s some piping and black cord hand sewn to the central front bit. The dots on the back were drawn on with fabric pen. The white petal collar is made up of 6 individual pieces, cut from cotton drill and interfaced. Each one had grey bias tape applied, then they were sewn together to have the grey taper into the seams. The black collar is lined and interfaced with white piping applied. The tricky bit here was the piping also had to continue around the little curved cutout in the middle. I ended up using more jewellery wire inside all of the piping to help the cutout keep its shape and I also needed to use some double-sided tape to stick it to me.

I used Marabu fabric spray paint in orange and yellow for the gradient on the end of the petals and painted the green parts by hand with acrylic. The white gradient towards the tips was also done by hand.

The sleeves are made from the same fabric as the dress. The two rows of zigzags at the tops are lined, and there’s concealed elastic to help hold them up. The gradient is sprayed on again. I slathered both sides of the fabric in fray stop before carefully snipping out all the holes.

I used white cotton drill for the skirt, simply cutting a rectangle and knife pleating it. I chose to hem it and sew down the black bias tape stripes before pleating.

For the wig, I bought a super-long wig on eBay, cut the short pieces at the front and put in the 4 braids. I made the yellow flowers at the ends of the braids out of the polycotton which had been my dress mock-up. The outlines of the petals were drawn out on the fabric using fray stop and each snipped out when it was dry. The gradient was done with my orange and yellow fabric spray paints. I used a few feathers for some fluff on the insides because I felt like it. The petals are hot glued together, and safety pin to the ends of the braids. The yellow fluff hides the ends of the braids and the attachment of the flowers. The bits at the top of the braids are some spare fabric wrapped around wadding and quilted. I then painted them bronze, and they safety pin into the wig. They were interesting to try and figure out from the (highly variable) references, but I eventually picked a version which I could recreate and that I liked the look of.

For the shoes, I started with sandals from eBay which have a suitable thick sole. It was really difficult to find shoes with that sort of platform (or I was just unlucky). I kept searching for platform trainers but they were always too expensive, so I had to make do. I made covers from the yellow dress fabric, interlined with felt for support. For the designs around the edges of the soles, I quilted the designs on to black fabric.

Comments

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Fantastic progress. Really interesting sleeve bottom method, that strikes me as the most abstract part of the costume and people approach it so differently.

by Amy-Lou on Wednesday, 21 July, 2010 - 10:07
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Very much looking forward to you finally finishing this! If you'd like a Lehas just say the word

by Mighty Odango on Saturday, 5 March, 2011 - 19:06
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You were so so cute as Reith in this ^^

by Pandora-Chi on Sunday, 20 March, 2011 - 23:07
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The finished thing is wonderful. Great idea for the shoe soles too, I'll have to remember that one =)

by Amy-Lou on Tuesday, 22 March, 2011 - 15:44
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Superb. I love how your colour gradient designs came out, they really capture the artwork.

by Ranma1-2 on Thursday, 24 March, 2011 - 23:59
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This looks beautiful and was great to see in person. Love the painting and the shape of it. Looks fantastic.

by j_mercuryuk on Monday, 19 September, 2011 - 03:33
 

Journal

Shoes (Posted 22nd March 2011)

With both sections of the covers finished, I sewed the yellow top part to the black sole section. It was quite tricky to get it to follow the funny shapes here, I think I could have planned that better. I then sewed the back seam and then attached the covers to the base shoes. I used hot glue then I hammered in a few little pins to secure the fabric to the soles. I tried painting over the heads of the pins with black acrylic so they’re less obvious!

Shoes (Posted 22nd March 2011)

The convenient thing about this technique is the design ends up on both sides. That meant I could test out an idea on one side without worrying about the consequences if it failed! So I tried a wash of white acrylic paint to highlight the design more on one side and decided to go with it. Doesn’t make much difference, but it can’t hurt.

Shoes (Posted 22nd March 2011)

Using the wadding’s dimensions as I guide, I drew out the designs on a paper template and when I’d got them about right, I traced neat versions on to some solvy. Solvy is a clear, water-soluble film which you can draw on with permanent marker and use as a guide for stitching designs. I placed the solvy over two layers of black fabric with the wadding sandwiched between them and stitched along the lines of the design. When I was finished, I washed off the solvy. The photo shows my paper template, one of the soles with solvy still on it, and the other without it.

Shoes (Posted 22nd March 2011)

To make the designs on the edges of the soles, I used the same quilting idea as I tried for the hair thingies, this time with black stretch suedette (with hindsight, maybe leatherette would have been nice). I don’t like sculpting and I was worried that if I used modelling clay (even model magic), it might crack or be damaged when the shoes were worn. Fabric is flexible enough to suit shoes and the effect may subtle, but I like it more than having a really bizarre, bulky sculpture on my feet! (end result still resembles clown shoes though…)

I first wrapped some wadding around the shoes to get an approximate template.

Shoes (Posted 22nd March 2011)

I cut that same shape from felt, the yellow dress fabric and a matching yellow polycotton for the lining - the pieces are lined to neatly finish the awkward shaped top edges, with felt sandwiched between the lining and outer fabric.

Photo shows one completed cover. When sewn up at the back, it forms the right shape to fit over the sandal.

Shoes (Posted 22nd March 2011)

The resulting shape.

Shoes (Posted 22nd March 2011)

Then I messed about with spare felt to make the covers for the yellow part of the shoe. I used felt because I had it spare, it doesn’t fray and I could go on to use it as an interlining to stiffen the yellow fabric I’d be using for the final covers.

Shoes (Posted 22nd March 2011)

I had to cut away some of the strap to make it suit the shape of Reith’s weird shoes.

Shoes (Posted 22nd March 2011)

Last bit of the costume, I finished these on the Thursday before Minami, promptly packed them and only took the last photos after the con. Not happy with these, but at least I had shoes to complete the costume!

I started with these sandals from eBay which have a suitable thick sole. It was really difficult to find shoes with that sort of platform (or I was just unlucky). I kept searching for platform trainers but they were always too expensive, so I had to make do.

Painting (Posted 9th March 2011)

All done! I actually enjoyed painting stuff on a costume for a change. Usually I hate painting because I’m not good at getting it neat and mistakes can be fatal, but that didn’t matter here. It was really easy to do without any planning because there was no need to be precise with the design (and getting it precise from the references would be impossible anyway!) so I quite liked just making it up as I went along.

I’m not completely happy with the white gradient on the ends but can’t be bothered messing with it any more.

Just shoes left to do!

Dress (Posted 5th March 2011)

I started this costume last year with in the intention of wearing it at AmeCon, realised I wouldn’t have enough time and put it aside. I’ve now finally gone back to it and am aiming to finish it in time for Minami!

I revisited the sleeves, tightening the elastic in the tops so they’re more likely to stay up, and I also tidied up the wig a bit. The skirt has been shortened (from the waist) because I found I need to wear it lower to avoid it showing through the cutouts in the back of the dress.

Those cutouts also proved to be a problem for the wire framework supporting the petals. I’ve now sorted out the wire and its waistband so it doesn’t show. It’s not quite so well anchored now, but it does the job. I may work on it more if I find the time and enthusiasm - in the photos here it clearly needs a bit of tweaking.

As for the dress, I first finished the central front bit with black cord hand sewn to it. I’d have preferred the neatness of piping, even if inserting it all would be maddening, but I had to use cord because of the little loop hanging off the bottom - there’d be no simple way to cover the cord in fabric neatly and incorporate that hanging part. That loop has thin jewellery wire inside it to help it keep its shape. With that corded piece attached, I could finally finish up all the bias tape and close up the front of the dress.

The cutout at the back, which has caused so many problems as a knock-on effect, was also kind enough to be awkward to trim with bias binding, but I got there in the end. The dots were drawn on with fabric pen.

The white petal collar is made up of 6 individual pieces, cut from cotton drill and interfaced. Each one had grey bias tape applied, then they were sewn together to have the grey taper into the seams. This was incredibly frustrating, but I like the result!

The black collar is lined and interfaced with white piping applied. The tricky bit here was the piping also had to continue around the little curved cutout in the middle. More frustration ensued, but again, I coped and eventually finished it up. I ended up using more jewellery wire inside all of the piping to help the cutout keep its shape. I’m not entirely happy with it and I’ll need to use some double-sided tape to stick it to me, but it’s mostly cooperating now. Again, will revisit it if I can face it!

I used Marabu fabric spray paint in orange and yellow for the gradient on the end of the petals and although I will be painting the green parts by hand, I've tried to speed up the process a bit by using some of the green Marabu spray I had as well.

Remaining tasks: the rest of the green paint and the shoes. Still plenty I’d ideally want to improve on the dress, but I can’t be bothered right now and doubt I’d manage in the time before Minami anyway!

Sleeves (Posted 20th July 2010)

The sleeves are made from the same fabric as the dress. The two rows of zigzags at the tops are lined, and there’s concealed elastic to help hold them up. The gradient is sprayed on again. I slathered both sides of the fabric in fray stop before carefully snipping out all the holes.

Wig (Posted 20th July 2010)

The bits at the top of the braids are some spare fabric wrapped around wadding and quilted. I then painted them bronze, and they safety pin into the wig. They were interesting to try and figure out from the (highly variable) references, but I eventually picked a version which I could recreate and that I liked the look of.

Flowers (Posted 20th July 2010)

The petals are hot glued together, and safety pin to the ends of the braids. The yellow fluff hides the ends of the braids and the attachment of the flowers (I’m so happy to have a reason to use this stuff!)

Flowers (Posted 20th July 2010)

I made the yellow flowers at the ends of the braids out of the polycotton which had been my dress mock-up. The outlines of the petals were drawn out on the fabric using fray stop and each snipped out when it was dry. The gradient was done with orange and yellow Marabu fabric spray paints. I used a few feathers for some fluff on the insides because I felt like it.

Wig (Posted 20th July 2010)

I bought a super-long, but cheap wig on eBay. It was either that or buy a short wig and a bunch of extensions, and choosing the long wig possibly worked out cheaper 0_o Easier too. I cut the short pieces at the front and put in the 4 braids.

Wire (Posted 13th July 2010)

I covered the tape waistband in felt to pad out the ends of the wires and be able to sew to it. The waistband velcros to the top of the dress lining where it ends at the waist, then wraps round my waist to fasten at the front. That waistband both supports the framework and keeps the dress lining in place. I may need to adjust it to ensure the waistband stuff doesn’t show in the cut outs at the back of the dress, but for now I’m just glad my ideas worked!

The dress is only lined up to the waist, making the petals presentable from both sides, and to forming a pocket to enclose the wire framework. I think it’s a good idea to end the lining there, since it lets me lift the wire out to more easily iron, transport and store the costume. There’s no reason to have it fully lined anyway.

No idea if the photo will make much sense, but it kind of shows how the wire frame velcros to the lining.

Wire (Posted 13th July 2010)

There’s wire inside the petals to make them stick out, much like my Brawler costume again. I shaped the wire to match the dress, and the wires are duct taped together, mostly at the waist to make a sort of waistband and help with anchoring it all.

Dress (Posted 13th July 2010)

Very much in progress, but I like the petals, so thought it was time for a photo!

The dress started out as a mock-up. I began with the pattern I’d made for my Brawler costume, then cut out slightly different shapes for the petals, and continued to alter it from there. I optimistically used yellow polycotton in the hope that it could become the lining, but unfortunately, I had to make too many alterations for it to be useable. Luckily, I had enough of my final fabric to line the petals, which was all that mattered.

I don‘t quite know what the final fabric I‘m using is - I got the end of a stained bolt really cheaply years ago. I had to use an interesting cutting layout to work around the stained areas, ensuring that they were avoided, or would end up where they could be painted over at the ends of the petals!

It’s taken me a while to adjust the pattern, but when it was done, I got all my pieces cut out, overlocked, and assembled on Sunday. The overlapping piece on the right hand side of the dress is an entire second piece, just cut a little differently.

The dress looks like it should fasten at the front, but there’s so much detail there, I’ve decided to avoid that (although the seam is just pinned at the moment. The front will be sewn up though, and instead, it has an invisible zip down one side, and I’ll just have to make sure it can still fit over my head when I add the collar.

I’ve started on the bias tape, and I’m working on centre bit with black cord. Until that‘s sewn on, I can‘t finish up the bias tape though, which is why it‘s half-finished. I been thinking about the order to sew pieces together in, and when to apply the trim, so hopefully it’ll all layer together nicely and have a minimum of visible stitching.

Skirt (Posted 20th June 2010)

All sewn together with a waistband.

Skirt (Posted 20th June 2010)

Then pleated - I used a strip of cardboard the width of the pleats to quickly press them all in accurately.

Skirt (Posted 20th June 2010)

Nice quick project to start off the costume! I used white cotton drill for the skirt, simply cutting a rectangle and knife pleating it. I chose to hem it and sew down the black bias tape stripes before pleating, since it’s easier. It's crazy how much fabric is needed for pleats...